New-boat vinyl has protective antimicrobials that tend to last a year or so. After that, the vinyl can begin to show signs of mildew growth—a sign you’ve waited too long to apply a preventer, because once it appears, removing it completely is pretty much impossible, even though many products, when properly applied, appear to do so. It’s a management problem you’ll have to stay on top of at all times. Here’s how I effectively fight this battle aboard my own boat.

Marine vinyl is treated with persistent antimicrobial disinfectants with a finite life span consisting of months. Frequent contact with sunscreen, sweat, and dirt damages polymers in vinyl and the microbial barriers in it. The best way to treat mildew is to prevent it by thoroughly washing your vinyl after boating to remove oil, sweat and grime. Then treat it with a mildew ­preventer to restore its protective antimicrobial coating.

If you allow mildew to ­appear, you’ll have an ongoing ­maintenance issue of which you’ll never be entirely free. You’ll need to use mildew removers that are various derivatives of chlorine. Star brite’s mildew remover is sodium hypochlorite and sodium hydroxide. The former you know as bleach; the latter is a common compound in spray cleaners. The chlorine or bleach is destructive to threads, fibers, and polymers of your upholstery. Safe use requires thorough flushing after application, though water might not be entirely effective at penetrating stitching to wash out the chlorine.

Xanigo makes a system for mildew treatment that includes a remover, a waterless wash that neutralizes the remover, and a mold and mildew preventer that replaces the antimicrobial coating your vinyl was born with. We used it, and here’s how it works.

Remove the Mold

Xanigo’s mildew remover ($24.99) is a compound of chlorine bleach diluted to a safe handling level while maintaining its lethality to mold. Spray it on while wearing gloves, a mask and safety glasses. ­Goggles are best to ensure that spray doesn’t drift into your eyes.

Neutralize the Bleach

Once the mildew remover is ­applied, rinse well with fresh water and dry, then follow up with Xanigo’s waterless wash ($34.99). Spray it on, paying special attention to seams and threads. Let it sit a minute or so, then wipe it in with a microfiber cloth.

Read Next: How to Wash a Boat the Right Way

Stop Mold Growth

We don’t know the exact chemistry of Xanigo’s mold and mildew preventer ($39.99), but we do know that it works. My three-year-old Ranger bay boat began showing signs of mold at about 18 months of age. The battle is ongoing, but the preventer held off mold for about 90 days, a long life span in Florida’s heat and humidity. 

The preventer comes in a spray bottle, but for the professional ­detailer, Xanigo has designed a 120-volt atomizer ($249.99) or a cordless model ($349.99), which turns its preventer from liquid to near vapor. The effect is to ­provide an optimal coating of the ­preventer that can penetrate the threads, seams, and pores of the vinyl. When left to dry in place, the coating effectively stops mold growth for up to three months. In humid climates, it is wise to reapply in about half that time.

The post How to Protect Your Boat’s Vinyl From Mold and Mildew appeared first on Boating Mag.

Keeping your boat’s carpet looking good is key to keeping your boat looking good. One of the more challenging boat-maintenance chores is extracting sand from your marine carpet. The same tight weave that makes marine carpet so suitable for boat use also allows fine grains of sand to get in there and resist the suction of even the most powerful vacuum. Here is a clever technique for removing sand from your boat’s carpet, plus other marine-carpet-maintenance tips.

De-Sand

To remove grains of sand and other debris that get embedded deep in the weave of boat carpet and often resist normal vacuuming, start with a toilet brush in one hand and your shop vacuum’s nozzle in the other. Begin dry-scrubbing with the toilet brush, which causes sand and debris to jump from the weave, while simultaneously using the vacuum’s ­nozzle in the other hand to suck up the sand and grit that pops out from the weave. You don’t need to scrub too hard: The right pressure is that which gets the sand jumping out of the weave. You’ll know you’re done when the amount of jumping grit is reduced.

Spot Clean

Blot wet stains and sweep or vacuum dry stains, such as chips that got crushed underfoot, as soon as possible. Also as soon as possible, use a dedicated carpet cleaner or dish soap and a brush and fresh water.

Read Next: Best Products To Clean & Renew A Boat’s Unique Trouble Spots

Monthly/Annual ­Cleaning

Use a solution of Simple Green and water, or try a ­dedicated ­carpet cleaner such as Star brite ­Ultimate Carpet ­Cleaner ($13.09 for a 22-ounce spray bottle; defender​.com).

Tip: Regardless of the cleaning method, you must rinse thoroughly to rid the carpet completely of soap or cleaner and dirty rinse water, or it just won’t be clean.

Mold and ­Mildew

Carpet that shows mildew can be cleaned by scrubbing with a vinegar-­and-water solution. Mix 1 quart of white vinegar with 1 gallon of water. Spray on this solution, saturate the area to be cleaned, and then wait a minute or two. Scrub gently with a medium or stiff brush. Rinse thoroughly.

Rust Stains

Commercial rust ­removers often work well on rust-stained carpet. I have used a paste made from baking soda and water, mixed to the consistency of tile grout, with success. Blot the stain with a damp cloth first, then apply with a toothbrush, going in a ­circular motion.

Use A Shop Vac

A wet/dry shop vac can be used for ­initial cleaning—and for de-sanding, as described earlier. It’s also good for removing much of the soap prior to rinsing, plus it goes a long way toward drying your marine carpet.

Do Not Pressure-­Wash

If you pressure-wash, it might cause the carpet to pill or create lines, and it risks breaking the bond with the glue that holds it down. My advice: Leave the pressure washer in the garage and resist the urge to use it for this job.

The post How to Get Sand Out of Your Boat’s Carpet appeared first on Boating Mag.

After 15 years, the non-slip paint on my boat deck looked faded and dirty. But I put off repainting until the non skid failed and I started slipping and sliding on the wet deck. While a freshly painted boat deck looks great, providing a non-slip surface is the first step in maintaining a safe boat. 

There are several steps to repainting a boat deck. Taping off the area, cleaning the deck, sanding the old non skid paint, cleaning again, painting, drying, adding another coat of paint, drying and clean-up are all essential to getting the job done correctly. 

But the most important step happened before I began the project. Choosing the best marine deck anti-skid paint for my boat deck is directly related to the quality of the final result. With so many choices for non skid paint to match my needs, I took a deep dive into the best boat deck paint for my boat. Here is what I learned.

Quicklook: 6 Top Boat Non Skid Deck Paint Options

• Best for Long-lasting Results: Pettit Paint EZ Deck
• Best for Impact Resistance: Pettit Paint Tuff Coat Rubberized 
• Best Textured Non Skid Deck Paint: KiwiGrip Non-skid
• Best Two Part Deck Paint: Interlux Perfection Two Part
• Best Budget Deck Paint: Interlux Interdeck
• Best Aggregate: Alexseal Non Skid Fine HD

Best Non Skid Boat Deck Paint

Repainting the non-slip surfaces on the boat deck is a big job. Before picking an anti-skid paint, consider how often you use your boat, how much you have to spend, where you work on the boat and what equipment you have to get the job done. 

For easy application, choose a one-part paint system, or to match the boat’s color and provide a more durable surface, go with a two-part paint and non skid additive. To make sense of the choices, I narrowed down my list to the following best non skid marine deck paints for my boat.

Pettit Paint EZ Deck

Best for: Long-lasting results

The simplest way to achieve a durable and good-looking non skid deck surface is using a one-part deck paint with aggregate. Pettit Paint EZ Deck is the top performing deck anti-skid paint for easy application and fade resistance. After the deck surface is prepared, simply stir the EZ Deck to distribute the aggregate and apply three to four coats with a ⅜ inch nap roller. 

Features:

• One step process
• Ultraviolet filters prevent color fade
• Premixed aggregate

Disadvantages:

• Only available in three colors
• For best results, add EZPoxy Paint Enhancer

Price: $182.99/gallon

Pettit Paint Tuff Coat Rubberized 

Best for: Impact resistance

For high-traffic areas and hard use, rubberized deck paint offers a thicker and more durable surface. Often found on commercial vessels, rubberized marine deck paints are flexible, thick and super grippy. Pettit Paint’s Tuff Coat Rubberized non skid deck paint is a one-step paint created by cross-linking urethanes, acrylics, co-polymers and recycled rubber granules to maximize durability and performance. 

I like the rubber granules as the aggregate to maintain consistent texture and prevent wear and tear. The thick coat of rubber paint also provides shock absorption. Non-toxic and water based, Tuff Coat is easy to apply with a roller or brush and easy to clean up with soap and water.

Features:

• Thick material hides surface imperfections
• Submersible
• Shock absorbing rubber aggregate 

Disadvantages:

• Aggressive grip not comfortable on bare feet
• Matte finish only
• Requires primer

Price: $154.99/gallon

KiwiGrip Non-Skid System

Best for: Textured non skid deck paint

Most non-slip deck paint uses an abrasive additive to provide grip on slippery decks. Another option is using a thick deck paint and a special paint roller to dimple the paint for a non skid texture. KiwiGrip Non-Skid System doesn’t require mixing the aggregate with the paint and is softer on bare feet. Textured marine deck paint improves durability because as the paint wears it doesn’t release the aggregate. By changing the application process, customize the depth of the texture for more grip.

Features:

• One component
• Durable
• No aggregate

Disadvantages:

• Requires a special roller or brush (available with the paint system)

Price: $47.99/liter

Interlux Perfection Two-Part Polyurethane Topside

Best for: Two-part non-slip deck paint

For a professional-looking non skid deck, a two-part paint offers the best color, finish and durability. Interlux Perfection Two Part Polyurethane Topside is packaged with the base and catalyst pre-measured for the simplest way for do-it-yourself boat owners to achieve professional results. Two-part paint is chemical, detergent and fuel resistant for the longest lasting deck coverage. Achieve the perfect non-slip surface by choosing the size and amount of aggregate to mix with the base paint. 

Features:

• Wide range of color choices
• Customizable aggregate
• High gloss finish

Disadvantages:

• Expensive
• Requires more prep and post work
• Best with paint sprayer

Price: $140.99/quart

Interlux Interdeck

Best for: Budget deck paint

An easy-to-apply anti-slip deck paint that won’t break the budget, Interlux Interdeck combines an advanced polyurethane with a fine grit aggregate for a one-step application. Spray, brush or use a roller to apply one to two coats of the deck paint. Interlux Interdeck has a low-sheen finish to prevent blinding sun glare off the deck.  

Features:

• Inexpensive
• Apply with sprayer, roller or brush
• Low sheen to reduce glare

Disadvantages:

• Only available in five colors
• Fine grit only
• No UV inhibitors

Price: $77.99/quart

Alexseal Non Skid Fine HD

Best for: Adding aggregate to two-part polyurethane

Two-part polyurethane paint offers the most options for color, finish and durability. By adding a separate aggregate, two-part paints can be customized for grip. Alexseal Non Skid Fine HD is a clear aggregate added to two-part paints to increase grip in slippery surfaces. The advanced synthetic clear aggregate won’t change color as the paint wears for years of reliable grip. Available in fine and coarse grit, choose the size of the aggregate to match the application. Use fine grit in low-traffic areas and heavier grit in spaces requiring more traction.

Features:

• Doesn’t fade or separate from paint
• Mix with any two-part polyurethane paint
• Available in fine or coarse grit for custom application

Disadvantages:

• Requires measuring and mixing
• Expensive

Price: $127.99

Common Types of Non Skid Boat Deck Paint

Do-it-yourself boat owners have several choices for easy-to-use non-slip deck paint that will maintain a safe, colorful deck coating for years of heavy use. For high traffic areas requiring chemical and fuel resistance, choose a rubberized or textured paint. 

To create a smoother texture with customizable grip, polyurethane paints with added aggregate look great and prevent slipping. Polyurethane deck paint with fine aggregate is the easiest to clean after a day on the water. Read ‘How to Repair Gelcoat’ to learn about touching up or repainting the topcoat on your boat.

One Part Polyurethane

Easy to prepare the surface. Easy to apply with a roller or brush. No mixing required. 

Two-Part Polyurethane 

Most durable and best looking topcoat paint. Two part polyurethanes are great for matching the boat’s color and finish. Requires mixing base with catalyst and adding the grippy aggregate. The professional-looking result is worth the extra effort.  

Rubberized

Thick and durable, rubberized deck coating is non-slip and protects the surface from damage. Heavy rubberized deck paint also covers up imperfections in the surface, so it’s great for repainting a non-slip deck. Add aggregate to the rubber paint or use a rubberized paint with non skid particles already added.

Textured 

Textured deck paint creates a non-slip surface with a rough surface texture. Textured anti-slip paints don’t require adding or mixing aggregates. Textured paints are more durable than aggregate paints because they wear evenly without exposing the aggregate embedded in the paint.

Non Skid Coatings

By adding non skid coatings to base paint, I can customize the color, finish and grit to match my needs. In a high-traffic area, I can use a coarse grit aggregate. For areas that don’t see as much action, I can apply a finer grit. I can even choose silica, wood, rubber or synthetic aggregate to adjust the size, shape and traction of the aggregate.

Protect Yourself With the Right Boat Deck Paint

When it’s time to repaint the non-slip surfaces on my boat, I have a wide range of paints to choose from. Depending on the surface, how I use my boat, my budget and my skills and tools, I have easy-to-use paints and high-quality, customizable systems. For the best look and performance, a two-part polyurethane with added aggregate produces the most professional and durable finished product. Sacrificing some color and finish choices allows me to use a one-step non-slip deck paint with aggregate mixed into the single-part paint. 

For the best durability and traction, rubberized paint not only provides solid traction but it absorbs shock and protects the deck surface. Or, I can save time and energy and create a non skid surface by using a textured paint and a special paint roller. 

Not only does a fresh coat of non-slip deck paint look great, but preventing slips and falls on wet surfaces is the first step in avoiding serious injuries. Once I realized how easy it is to repaint my deck, I was more confident to tackle this project on my own. 

FAQ

The post Best Non-Skid Boat Deck Paint appeared first on Boating Mag.

Waters choked with Eurasian milfoil or hydrilla can foul props and clog water intakes. Of course, the now-infamous quagga and zebra mussels can cause catastrophic physical and financial infrastructure damage. These pests spread by many means, including as hitchhikers on trailered boats. That’s why the process of clean, drain and dry should be practiced by all boaters. We spoke with Peter Murphy of Paul Smith’s College Adirondack Watershed Institute in Paul Smith’s, New York, about best practices for owners of trailered boats. This information will help you comply with decontamination requirements as you trailer to different lakes, helping prevent the spread of invasive species.

Clean

Remove all plants, mud, and wildlife from your boat and trailer after each trip. “­Trailers are the number-one piece of contaminated equipment,” Murphy points out. Even the smallest scrap of milfoil or a single mussel can ­colonize a new body of water the next time you launch. Use a pressure washer on high for the exterior, and use a low-pressure setting on boat interiors.

For best results, use water heated to 120 degrees F. Most residential water heaters are set to 120 to 140 degrees F. You may be able to connect your pressure washer to a washing machine or slop-sink faucet. Use buckets of hot water otherwise. Be aware that many water pumps for livewells and ballast tanks are not rated for water over 120 degrees. Run your engine on the same 120-degree water for at least two minutes. If hot water is not available, a thorough cold-water rinse still helps, Murphy says.

Drain

After cleaning, completely drain your boat’s bilge, ballast tanks, livewells and any other compartment that will hold water. Jack up the boat by the bow to ensure good drainage through the transom drain. Naturally, you might not be able to ­completely drain enclosed ballast tanks. I will get to that. Do not allow drainage from the boat or engine to flow back into a waterway. 

Dry

Make sure your boat and all its compartments are bone-dry before relaunching. Completely towel-dry everything. If hot water was not available for cleaning, open the hatches and provide five days of air drying to help ensure the death of hitchhiking invasives.

Ballast Tanks

Watersports boats’ ballast tanks often do not completely drain. You can use a tool such as Fake-A-Lake to fill the ballast tanks with ­120-degree water. But some ballast pumps might not be rated for water that hot. Identify the pumps’ make and model, and call the manufacturer, the boatbuilder, or your dealer. As stated, a thorough, repeated rinse with cold water, while not as effective as hot water, will still flush out many invasives. 

Adding bleach through the vent to fill the ballast will kill any invasive life in your tanks. But when you drain those tanks, you will be putting bleach into the lake, which will kill organisms, native and invasive. 

DeCon Certification

You will find wardens or inspectors stationed at many launch ramps. They might conduct a visual inspection, an interview regarding your clean-drain-dry protocol or both. You might be asked to pull the transom drain plug, energize a pump or open compartments before being permitted to launch. If water dispenses from any of these, you might be required to decontaminate your boat. Many conservation agencies require proof of decontamination. This comes in the form of a personal affidavit or by having the boat decontaminated by a locally approved provider. The Adirondack Watershed Institute offers free hot-water decontamination at multiple locations. Other places might charge a fee. Call ahead before you hit the road.

PWC

At inspection stations, you might be asked to start the engine momentarily on the trailer and to gun the engine. This is OK if done for just a few seconds. [Both Sea-Doo and Yamaha confirmed for us that this practice is acceptable. —Ed.] If water comes out, you might be referred for decontamination before being allowed to launch. I suggest you do this before you leave for the lake so no water comes out at the inspection station.

Read Next: Choosing the Best Bottom Paint

Outboards

During a launch inspection, a warden might ask you to tilt the engine or drive down. If any water comes out, you might be referred for decontamination before being allowed to launch. Again, before you arrive at the launch site, completely tilt the engine down to drain out all water. Also, if it rains en route to the ramp, stop, tilt the engine down to drain it, and then proceed the rest of the way. Doing so might save you the time of having to decontaminate.

Inboards/Sterndrives 

Because an inspector can’t readily tell if there is residual water in the cooling circuit of an inboard or sterndrive, they will often rely on their interview, and a hull and trailer inspection, to determine whether to refer your boat for decontamination. If the last body of water you boated in was “high risk,” you likely might be required to have the boat decontaminated. 

The post How Boaters Can Stop the Spread of Invasive Species appeared first on Boating Mag.

While a host of new-tech products such as ceramic coatings and graphene sprays has emerged to treat gelcoat finishes on fiberglass boats, traditional marine waxes remain among the most effective and least expensive ways to lay down a protective barrier from sunlight and stains. To learn how to achieve the best boat waxing results, we talked with Sam McGinley of Shurhold Industries, a boat-detailing expert who provided these eight tips.

Start With a Clean Surface

“Start with a finish that is as clean and smooth as ­possible,” McGinley says. A marine wax, be it paste or liquid, is not a corrective chemical; it is designed to seal, creating a shiny sacrificial barrier against UV and environmental fallout. But it will not make gelcoat look better, he explains. To improve the look, you will need to wash and dry the boat. Depending on the gelcoat condition, you also might need to apply rubbing compound to remove surface ­oxidation, eliminate stains, and/or ­degrease the surface. “This can represent as much as 90 percent of the work,” McGinley points out. “Only after you’re happy with the appearance of the finish should you begin the boat waxing process.”

Use a Pure Wax

There exists a multitude of products called waxes, including “cleaner waxes” that include compounding chemicals in addition to waxes. However, because McGinley recommends compounding and cleaning the surface beforehand, he prefers to use a pure wax such as Shurhold’s Pro Polish. Despite the name, it is a wax and sealant. Pure marine waxes from ­other brands include 3M Perfect-It Boat Wax, Meguiar’s M5616 Boat/RV Pure Wax, and Star brite Presoftened Boat Wax.

Avoid Direct Sunlight

Direct sunlight during the ­application intensifies ­surface temps, causing the wax to dry too quickly, reducing the ­working time. This causes the wax to cake up and become ­difficult to remove. Ideally, boat waxing should be done in a cool environment and in the shade.

Work in Small Areas

McGinley advises DIYers to work in small areas such as 2-by-2-foot or 3-by-3-foot ­sections, one at a time, ­whether applying by hand or with a buffing machine. Apply the wax within the square first in an up-and-down motion and then from side to side, to ensure full coverage. When applying by hand, use an applicator pad or a microfiber towel. With a buffer, use Shurhold’s Pro Polish pad, McGinley recommends.

Quick Cure Time

Allow only three to four minutes for each section to cure before buffing it out. Make sure you remove all of the hazy, cured boat wax using a clean microfiber towel (if buffing by hand) or a microfiber pad with a machine buffer.

Lots of Microfiber Towels

While terry towels used to be the traditional favorite, today, microfiber products are easier on gelcoat for both application and buffing. But you will want plenty of clean towels and machine pads standing by because the ­microfiber ­eventually becomes saturated with wax during application. It also loads up with wax residue when buffing. The good news is that you can wash microfiber products, but do so using cold water, not hot.

Read Next: Choosing the Right Buffer for Your Boat

Machine Boat Waxing

If you prefer to use a machine polisher versus hand-waxing, choose a dual-­action oscillating buffer. “The random action of these labor-­saving devices eliminates the risk of ‘burning’ edges of the boat’s gelcoat finish,” McGinley says, referring to a downside of incorrect use of single-action buffers.

Maintaining the Shine

“Wax is not something that lasts forever,” McGinley points out. “To maintain the shine and protective qualities, reapply three to four times each year.” Other steps include avoidance of harsh cleaning chemicals such as ­dishwashing soap or products containing chlorine—all of which strip away the wax’s protective barrier. “Use only a dedicated boat soap, and dry your boat with a microfiber towel each time after you wash it to eliminate the minerals deposited by water spots.”

The post 8 Tips for Waxing Your Boat appeared first on Boating Mag.

My boat is stored in a wet slip for seven months of the year.  It’s on a creek that drains farmland and suburban lawns at one and open to a salty, coastal bay on the other. These elements set the stage for an environment in which marine life—including that which grows on boats, engines and running gear—thrives. Even though I use my boat frequently, top quality antifouling protection is required.

Last year, I applied Interlux Trilux 33 Aerosol to my outboard’s immersed parts (the tip of the gearcase torpedo and the bottom half of the mounting bracket) and also to my stainless-steel trim tabs and to a transom-mounted transducer. The ‘ducer is plastic with a metal bracket. 

Following the can instructions, I made sure the surfaces were properly prepped. (The type and state of your submerged metals will dictate your specific prep tasks, so read the can label.) I then applied three coats of Trilux 33. As a guide to coverage this required two full cans to accomplish.

Trilux 33 cures to touch dry in 30 minutes at 50 degrees F, can be overcoated in 12 hours at that temp. and can be immersed 16 hours following that. Those times get longer with colder air temperatures and shorter as the air gets warmer. Trilux 33 can be applied down to 41F, according to the label.  Plan accordingly.

Before I get to the results, some background. Aluminum, like what an outboard is made from, requires the use of a copper-free antifoulant. Copper is used in many antifouling paints, and for good reason: It is an excellent biocide. However, it reacts badly with aluminum when immersed in an electrolyte, like seawater. Applying copper to an aluminum boat or motor is almost sure to cause corrosion. So, a copper-free paint is required.

Read Next: How to Apply the Propspeed Antifouling System

This ability to protect, without damaging my outboard’s aluminum was the biggest reason for choosing Trilux 33 Aerosol. The second reason was ease of application. Coating the curved surfaces of the gearcase torpedo, and all the nooks and crannies and corners of the mounting bracket, is much easier done with a rattle can than with a brush. For that same reason of ease of application, I chose to apply Trilux 33 Aerosol to my trim tabs.

I will note here that Trilux 33 is also available in quart and gallon cans for those applications where using a brush or roller makes the most sense. Or, if you are simply more comfortable brushing and rolling. For instance, were I protecting an aluminum boat hull, I would have chosen this formulation of Trilux 33.

So, how did Trilux 33 Aerosol perform in protecting my outboard and trim tabs from marine growth? You should know that I have kept a boat in this same spot for more than 20 years, still use the boat frequently, and, so, am very familiar with how much growth to expect when I haul out in late fall.

The Trilux did an excellent job.

The worst first, I counted three tiny barnacles, about the size of the tip of my little finger.   They decided to find a home in the unused holes in my engine’s mounting bracket. There was a thin layer of grass on the top of the trim tabs; no long beards; it looked as if it had just been formed. By the end of the season, mind you much of an antifoulant’s efficacy can be washed away. Finally, there was only a barely detectable amount of  slime that I could detect. Interlux credits this to the inclusion of Biolux technology in the formulation for Trilux 33. It is specifically designed to inhibit slime.  

Naturally, Trilux 33 Aerosol can also be used to protect sterndrives and other underwater metals.

Notably Trilux comes in multiple colors. Choose black, gray or white.

In all I rate the performance of Trilux 33 Aerosol, “A-plus,” The end of season fouling I noted was as minimal as I have seen in over two decades keeping a boat in the same location.

Trilux 33 is available in 12-oz aerosol cans, and in quarts and gallons of brushable/rollable paint. ($46.99/$109.99/$358.99; Westmarine.com)

The post We Test Interlux Trilux 33 Aerosol Antifouling Paint appeared first on Boating Mag.

Surface preparation is the key to a bright shine, and ­electric buffers are the best way to remove oxidation, stains, and fine scratches for a lasting result. It’s 90 percent of the work, and without doing it, today’s new ­synthetic polymers and newer silicone dioxide compounds called ceramic can actually magnify surface imperfections and accelerate oxidation. And the trending graphene—a blend of silicone dioxide and a molecular derivative of carbon—will tint an improperly prepared surface an appalling gray.

So we tested several electric buffers to make the ­easiest time of prep work, and spoke to some experts on their equipment recommendations, techniques and ­accessories to get a professional finish, save time, and make sure ­boaters spend more time boating and less time buffing.

How We Tested

The equipment and accessories we’ve tested here are ­ideal for surface preparation for ceramic, graphene, ­polymer-wax and carnauba-wax protective coatings. We ­applied an X-shaped or a ­circular bead of multistage compound to the pad. Either shape worked fine as long as we pressed the pad against the hull before pulling the trigger to avoid “slinging” the compound. We worked in 2-foot-square patches, polishing in a crosshatch motion. GTecniq and Shurhold experts advised us to buff no more than 45 seconds to avoid ­generating ­damaging heat.

Note: High-speed rotary buffers are designed for aggressive compounding, known as cutting, and are best reserved for experienced  detailers. Dual-action orbital buffers are ideal for casual ­weekend warriors. We tested only the ­Hercules 12-volt rotary buffer, and thanks to its smaller wheels, it’s ideal for detail work in confined areas.

Buffers

Worx 20-Volt Cordless Orbital Buffer

$99.99; worx.com

We’ve tested many Worx tools, and they’ve all been nicely matched to their tasks. This new 10-inch orbital buffer is another good example. If you’ve got a supply of Worx tools, you have plenty of batteries to extend the 40-minute run time of the single included battery, and you can keep one on the charger while buffing. A thick 10-inch foam backer pad accepts the included applicator pad and the included synthetic-wool polishing pad. The orbital action at 3,000 rpm ensures that the polishing action won’t cause swirls. Its steering-wheel-style grip gives plenty of handling options, and at 6.8 pounds, it’s easy to manage.

Our Test: We liked the large pad for covering hullsides. The rotation stops if the pad is overpressured, but the back-and-forth orbital motion continues. The maximum 3,000 rpm speed is ideal for light compounding, and excellent for finish polishing. 

Included: Polishing bonnet, compounding bonnet, battery, charger

• Power: 20 V cordless
• Speeds: 3,000 rpm 
• Pads: 10-inch bonnets
• Weight: 6.3 lb.

Hercules HD035B 12-Volt CORDLess Variable-Speed Polisher/Sander

$69.99 tool; Batteries $24.99 2 ah, $34.99 4 ah; $44.99 charger; harborfreight.com

This buffer uses backing plates with threaded spindles and runs 3-inch buffer pads from 3 to 6 inches, making it ideal for a smaller boat or smaller surface areas such as helm stations and multifaceted interior spaces. The direct-drive rotary spindle has high- and low-speed settings for protecting delicate finishes or aggressively removing oxidation. Batteries and charger are a la carte.

Our Test: Its light weight makes it easy to control, and its small pads proved handy on our helm station, giving easier access and control. Variable speeds at zero to 2,800 rpm are ideal for polishing; high speeds of zero to 8,300 rpm are best for sanding.

Included: 1 ³/₄-inch and 2 ³/₄-inch sanding plates, 2 ⁷/₈-inch hook-and-loop buffing-pad backer, 2 foam pads, 1 wool buff pad, ambidextrous screw in right-angle handle

• Power: 12 V cordless
• Speeds: Low 0 to 2,800; high 0 to 8,300 rpm 
• Pads: 3- to 6-inch wheels
• Weight: 1.6 lb.

Shurhold Dual-Action Polisher

179.98; shurhold.com

This six-speed polisher is designed exclusively for Shurhold, a nationally acclaimed manufacturer of boat-care products. Each speed activates a faster rpm, from 2,500 to 6,500. Its random orbital action ensures a smooth, deep finish when properly used. Load up the wool or foam pad with a circular bead of polish, then press it to the surface before activating the polisher. High speed is for final polishing; use slower speeds for heavier compounds and cutting. The handle rotates from vertical to horizontal at the polishing head and gives a balanced grip.

Our Test: The handle proved easy to adjust for a comfortable angle, but we preferred the horizontal position for an even application of force. Setting the speed is easy with the thumb dial at the cord end of the buffer. A larger hand can better manage the grip at the trigger, but finger grooves on the bottom and the rubber padded top enhance control and add comfort to the large handle. We like the easy one-thumb trigger-lock mechanism for continuous running.

Included: Deluxe canvas storage bag, quick-change Velcro backing plate, pad wrench, standard side handle, deluxe D handle, pair of replacement carbon brushes, 20-foot power cord, GFCI plug adapter.

• Power: 120 V 4.5 amp
• Speeds: 6 speed; 2,500 to 6,500 rpm
• Pads: 5- to 6-inch hook-and-loop
• Weight: 4.8 lb.

Hercules HC109B 8-Amp 6-inch Forced Rotation Dual-Action Polisher

$129.99; harborfreight.com

This is the most aggressive rotary polisher we’ve seen that’s also equipped with the random orbital rotation for preventing swirling and burning. While many orbital or dual-action polishers’ pads will stall out if too much pressure is applied, this one continues to spin and orbit, giving more control—and more need for care—when removing heavy damage to a finish. 

Our Test: We liked the tapered grip of the tool and its trigger position right away. The front D-shaped handle is designed to be used in the horizontal position to evenly apply the pad flat against the surface to avoid overheating the finish. For that reason, we agreed with the fixed-handle design. Its soft start trigger is engaged on every rpm setting, and the speed-adjustment dial offers infinite options. Use lower speeds for polishing to avoid risk of swirling. Reserve the higher speeds for rapid removal of material in sanding.

Included: 6-inch hook-and-loop pad, 25-foot cord, 8-millimeter hex wrench

• Power: 120 V
• Speeds: Variable 3,200 to 9,600 rpm 
• Pad: 6-inch hook-and-loop
• Weight: 6.3 lb.

Meguiar’s MT300 DA

$240.80 buffer only; amazon.com

We weren’t able to test the soft-start trigger’s ability to stop compound slinging, but the feature should ensure optimal control. Dual-action orbiting helps prevent swirling, and the 3,000 to 6,500 rpm variable speed is controlled by a handy thumbwheel. The D-shaped handle rotates fore and aft, from 90 degrees vertical to horizontal in front of the wheel. The two-handed grip should reduce fatigue.

• Included: Buffer only
• Power: 120 V; 4.5 amp
• Speeds: Variable 3,000 to 6,500 rpm
• Pads: 5-inch hook-and-loop
• Weight: 5.4 lb.

Another Option: Dual-action Power-System Tool

$70.99; meguiarsdirect.com

Attach this to any variable-speed drill for easy buffing. We think that it would be ideal for the diligent DIY guy with one boat who keeps up finish maintenance and doesn’t require extensive surface restoration. It is far faster and more useful than hand-polishing but not as effective as a dedicated buffer. Dual-action orbital motion helps prevent swirls.

Read Next: Use Boat Paint, Never Wax Your Boat Again

Polishing Compounds

GTecniq Multistage Polish

This polish is one of two multistage ­compounding systems. It starts out aggressively at 1500-grit, and as it is worked against the surface, the grit breaks down to 2500-grit. Quit buffing ­before it dries, and wipe off the residue with a microfiber towel. Inspect and repeat if necessary. We tried it on metal surfaces and found it to work well there too. A 17-ounce bottle should buff a 25-foot boat. $37.95 (17 oz.); gtechniq.com

Shurhold BUFF Magic

This is also a multistage compound that begins as an aggressive formula with a tougher grit, then the grit breaks down into finer and finer particles as it is polished in. Eventually, it results in a high-gloss finish after removing oxidation and fine scratches. Buff Magic is also an excellent metal-polishing compound, but mask the area around it to protect from black metal residue. Shurhold says that 22 ounces finishes a 25-foot boat. $37.55 (22 oz.); shurhold.com

303 Three-Step Finishing Polish

The 303 system comes in three bottles: Step 1 is 1500-grit for cutting; Step 2 is 2000-grit for leveling; Step 3 is 2500-grit for final prep and polish. This system worked well, and applying each compound successively for 45 seconds did the job with minimal effort. For each 12-ounce bottle: Step 1 $21.80, Step 2 $35.18, Step 3 $24.99; amazon.com

Bonnets and Pads

Wool Pads

Wool pads are generally synthetic today, and per GTechniq’s experts, that’s OK. Each pad should be cleaned by running it over with a brush or a spur between applied sections. This removes caked-on compound and impurities from the finish. Wool is generally the choice of expert detailers. Hook-and-loop backing is the preferred attachment on 3- to 6-inch pads. Lace-on bonnets are usually used on 10-inch orbital buffers.

Foam Pads

These are used on buffer wheels less than 8 inches in diameter. They come in various consistencies from fine to coarse grit. They are less durable, disposable and, in our experience, require more care to avoid swirling. Buy several for a 25-foot boat.

Note: Whether you use wool or foam pads is a question of experimentation. Each hull is different, and our experts suggest trying a test area before proceeding to the entire hull.

The post Choosing the Right Buffer for Your Boat appeared first on Boating Mag.

Boat wax is passe. If you want a truly hardshell shine, look to a new surface treatment called graphene. If you’ve selected a brand that is true graphene—usually graphene oxide—and not just granulated graphite, which describes many false graphene products, it will provide outstanding UV protection and dissipate another enemy to your boat’s finish: heat.

We used 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating ($34.99). It’s bottled to resemble a quick detailer, but don’t apply it like a detailer or you’ll add a dull gray scrim to your finish. Use it properly and it’s tougher than wax.

What Is It?

Chemically, graphene products are graphene oxide. Pure graphene is far harder to isolate and mass-produce. Graphene oxide is a derivative of graphite. It’s mechanically and chemically separated from graphite, yielding translucent molecular plates. The electrons of those plates are charged in such a way that they are attracted to each other. When suspended in another recently popular surface treatment, ceramic (which is silicon dioxide), they bond to each other and the hull surface in a tenacious honeycomb quilt that stops UV light, dissipates heat, sheds water, and protects hulls with a brilliant shine.

But don’t underestimate the note in the directions that the application surface must be “free of defects.” There should be no dirt and zero oxidation. Scratches need to be buffed out, and any road grease, polish residue or impurities must be removed or the graphene oxide will collect on such areas in excess, amplifying the flaws rather than hiding them, and adding a gray film to the hull.

Does it work? Oh yeah, it works. Here’s how.

Clean the Hull

Wash the hull thoroughly. Against popular judgment, I used Dawn dish detergent for its grease-cutting capability; I wanted no chance of boat-soap wax left over. I wiped it dry to stop water spotting. Next, I sprayed on a product used when we ceramic-coated my boat: Gtechniq’s Iron and Fallout Remover ($9.95; gtechniq.com). This chemical removes organic and metallic compounds, and turns purple when it’s finished. 

Buff It to Death

After rinsing, I buffed out the hull with a three-step series of 303 polishes that graduated from Step No. 1 1500 grit to Step No. 2 2000 grit to Step No. 3 2500 grit (each $25.99 per 12-ounce bottle). Buy a buffer, unless you want your Mr. Miyagi treatment to end in a torn rotator cuff. 

Graphene oxide is unforgiving and clearly amplifies any imperfections like oxidation or abrasions. This stuff wags a nasty tisk-tisk finger if you use shortcuts. Wipe the surface with a microfiber cloth between steps.

Panel Preparation

Once all the oxidation was gone, I turned to another product we used in our ceramic treatment: Gtechniq’s Panel Wipe ($19.95). This is primarily alcohol, and it quickly removes polish residue.

Wipe On, Swipe Off

Next, the 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating has to be laid down in a thin layer. Multiple layers of graphene plates turn from translucent to opaque and tint the finish. You can buff it out, but you’ll cuss yourself for doing so.

Instead, spray it on a foam-backed microfiber pad. We received one from 303 that was about twice the size and thickness of a bar of soap. Wipe it on the hull in cross-hatch motions, back and forth, up and down, and repeat until it is evenly ­applied and barely visible. 

Let it dry just a few minutes and wipe it off. Work in small patches for a mirrorlike finish that amplifies the quality of the surface below it.

Maintain the results with frequent washings using a wax-free boat soap. Or use 303 Graphene Detailer ($16.99) to make the hull match the gleam in your eye. As with all surface treatments, reapply it long before the manufacturer’s maximum life-limit recommendation. In other words, read “three to six months” as three months. It will be far less work that way.

The post Protect Your Boat With Graphene Oxide appeared first on Boating Mag.

There’s a lot of hype about ceramic coatings for planes, automobiles and especially boats. We got curious about them and initiated a test to learn how involved the application process is and see what kind of finish they might provide. Gtechniq’s Rinse-On Ceramic Coating is pretty easy to use, providing three months of protection—enough for most North American boaters’ main season, and it’s easy to renew midseason for more longevity. Our results made it an ideal DIY project. For more durable ceramic-coating products, professional application is recommended.

Ceramic coatings work by penetrating the gelcoat at the molecular level, sealing out impurities and blocking damaging UV light. To be effective, they must be applied to a perfectly pure surface, free of grease, grime, organic residue from algae and birds, metallic residue, and exhaust residue from highway and overhead air traffic. Last, before ceramic application, the gelcoat has to be free of chalky oxidation. If it is not, the ultra-clear ceramic finish will intensify the sun’s rays and accelerate oxidation.

Here’s how we did it in just a few hours using the right cleaning tools and supplies.

Skill Level: 2.5 out of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 4.5 hours

Tools and Supplies

• Iron and Fallout Remover ($29.95 per 35 oz; amazon.com)
• UV Wash ($18.95 per 16.9 oz; amazon.com)
• Multi-Stage Polish ($37.95 per 16.9 oz; amazon.com)
• Panel Wipe ($19.95 per 16.9 oz; amazon.com)
• Rinse-On Ceramic Coating ($29.95 per 16.9 oz; amazon.com)
• Wipe-On Ceramic Fast Coat ($39.95 per 16.9 oz; gtechniq.com)
• Garden hose
• Rubber gloves
• Goggles
• Spray nozzle
• Microfiber wash mitt
• Microfiber towels (six to 12)

Iron and Fallout Remover

This spray-on compound turned purple on the hull surface as it worked to dissolve metal residue, grease, and organics from the water. In about five minutes, when the intensity of the purple reaction stabilized, its job was done and we rinsed it off. It did not require a second treatment. When applying it, pay special attention to the transom area, where engine exhaust is apt to “station wagon” and foul the transom. On the hullsides, we found the most reaction along the aft half of the hull.

Tip: Iron and Fallout Remover is an essential step but only currently available in Gtechniq’s automotive line, so look for it under that heading.

UV Wash

The Gtechniq UV Wash is a high-sudsing detergent with an ultraviolet protectant formulated to ­assist the ceramic bond on the boat’s finish. We mixed a few ounces in a couple of gallons of water, washed it on with a microfiber mitt, and rinsed it off. Thanks to its UV-protective properties, this is the ideal product for maintaining the shine in subsequent washes. If you recoat the hull midseason with the Rinse-On product (which is recommended), this is likely the only step you’ll need for extended protection.

Multi-Stage Polish

If there is any oxidation on the gelcoat, applying the ceramic coating over it will accelerate the hazing process. The Gtechniq Multi-Stage Polish has low sling properties, meaning it won’t spin off the buffer during application. It’s designed to remove oxidation, and the compound’s cutting action diminishes in aggression as it is buffed off. The result is a surface free of oxidation with a high gloss, nearly ready to accept a ceramic coating. Our test boat was just three years old and benefited greatly from this treatment.

Panel Wipe

This is the last step before applying the ceramic coating. The Gtechniq Panel Wipe helps ensure that there is no petroleum, organic wash, polish residue, or any other impurities on the boat’s surface. It also assists in allowing the ceramic to penetrate and bond with the boat’s gelcoat. Spray it on a microfiber towel and wipe it onto the surface until it slides smoothly across the application area. Follow up by wiping down with a dry, clear microfiber towel to be sure all residue is removed from the boat’s finish.

Read Next: How to Restore Damaged Paint Finishes on Outboards and Sterndrives

Rinse-On Ceramic

A good way to gauge the impact of the Rinse-On ­Ceramic Coating is to first hose down the boat and watch the water adhere as it flows down the surface. Then, soon after beginning the spraying, it should suddenly start to bead up and zip off, indicating the ceramic is bonding to the gelcoat. With the spray nozzle pointed to the hull, we opened the water valve, then adjusted the ceramic valve to about halfway and sprayed from side to side. By the second to third pass, water beaded up, indicating the product had bonded.

The post Applying Spray-On Ceramic Coating appeared first on Boating Mag.

Tip Top Teak makes it easy to restore and protect teak trim on any boat. The system includes a two-part cleaner that removes stains and grayness, and brings out natural color and grain. The kit comes with two sturdy scrub brushes. For large deck areas, Crystal Deck Cleaner is ideal. Tip Top Teak Deck Brightener deep-cleans the teak, preparing it for Tip Top Teak Wood-Oil Sealer, which adds luster to the wood that lasts for months. Starting at $41.11 for the Cleaner Kit, $31.10 for Crystal Deck Cleaner, $19.99 for Brightener and $26.99 for Sealer, all in 32-ounce bottles; sudburyboatcare.com

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