Bayliner D22

Bayliner has a long history of building boats aimed at enticing new boaters, and the D22 fits that profile. It’s a deck boat, designed to maximize crew space so that you can cruise with the family one day and entertain friends the next, while throwing in the opportunity to go fishing or tubing. Bayliner improves the D22’s ride by adding a steeper point of entry and progressive-V. The result is drier, softer handling in rough waters, and smoother turns at speed. In the process, the D22 also gets a sleeker and more athletic appearance while retaining Bayliner’s trademark deep and secure feel.

Because Bayliner carried the D22’s beam forward into the bow area, there’s plenty of seating options in the interior. Forward, a U-shaped lounge wraps the bow cockpit with not only the typical forward-facing seatbacks for those who like to stretch out, but also padded backrests at the forward wall to allow passengers to face aft or watch watersports action in the boat’s wakes. Step through the walk-through windshield to find a well-appointed helm and swiveling bucket seat with flip-up bolster. Opposite, the port console adds lockable storage or can be optioned with a portable head. An L-shaped bench measuring 6 feet 8 inches by 5 feet 2 inches runs the remainder of the portside and across the transom. Behind, a large sun pad faces the swim platform. Pivot the bench backrest forward to fashion a recliner perfect for coving or the sandbar. The adjoining swim platform is covered in comfortable EVA foam, while a locker waits below the port end of the seat for larger items or water toys.

Tested: Read Our Test of the Bayliner D22

The D22 comes standard with 150 hp Mercury outboard, with a base price of $52,295. Our test model featured the upgrade to a 200 hp Mercury, which increased the price by $6,000. With the 200, we felt that the boat handled really well in the midrange rpm, while providing plenty of oomph to tow skiers and tubers. We climbed onto plane in 4.7 seconds and found the most economical cruising speed to be a brisk 29 mph, where the engine consumed less than 8 gph. Top speed? Just under 45 mph.

SunChaser Lucerne 20 LR DH

Perhaps no other boat category has seen more evolution and innovation of late than pontoons. The downside? A lot of pontoons now fall into the luxury-boat category, with six-figure price tags and complicated systems. Thankfully builders such as SunChaser still make affordable pontoons and, in the case of the Lucerne 20 LR DH, ones that still score big on style points.

With its roto-cast corner pieces that match the side paneling, the Lucerne 20 LR DH is an eye-catcher on the water. On pontoons, roto-molded plastic is typically found in seat bases and the occasional helm station, but SunChaser embraces it for a large percentage of both furniture and exterior walls on the Lucerne 20 LR DH. No less than four roto-molded modules are featured in each corner on the top deck. They form not only the Lucerne’s four primary seating areas, but also the ­adjacent exterior walls. Tied together along port and starboard sides with stretches of ­traditional aluminum fencing and backing panels, the combo strikes a thoroughly modern mix, with the roto-cast’s matte gray finish offset by a bright pop of color off the aluminum.

Tested: Read Our Test of the SunChaser Lucerne 20 LR DH

Move to the interior, and those four roto-cast modules reveal a passenger-focused floor plan. Bow lounges feature forward-facing backrests for those who want to stretch out, with wraparound back cushions for when the crew is ready to socialize. The port bench continues down the entire side until it meets the aft gate. Continue that big comfy couch on the starboard side where it backs up to the captain’s high-back swiveling helm seat. Overhead, a Bimini top, ­color-matched to the fence accent hue, offers shade to a large portion of the deck. The sculpted roto-cast helm console features a tilt wheel, gauge array, and Wet Sounds MC5 Bluetooth sound system with four speakers. Swap out the gauges for an optional Hummingbird Helix 5 ­in-dash GPS.

Belowdecks, the Lucerne rides atop a pair of 23-inch-diameter pontoons. Our test boat’s 90 hp Mercury outboard proved a value-minded match to the ­affordable Lucerne. Handling was precise for an entry-level model, with ­pontoons hooking up to deliver exceptional cornering with just a hint of ­outside lean. Paired with a 90-horse Mercury outboard, our test boat peaked just short of 27 mph. At a leisurely 13.5 mph cruising speed, its most economical, that consumption dropped as low as 2.9 gph.

Starcraft SV 16 OB

Is it a runabout or a deck boat? At only 16 feet, 10 inches, Starcraft’s SV 16 is one of the smallest deck boats on the market but offers big value for the family buyer. Few builders offer fiberglass boats under 20 feet these days, and Starcraft is one of those companies that still builds boats that can be trailered by a typical family vehicle.

While inexpensive, the SV 16 OB never looks cheap. Rather than a simple white base with applied graphics, the hull is available in a choice of bold primary shades, like our test boat’s electric blue. That color carries over as an accent onto a generous array of interior upholstery that further belies the boat’s price tag. Rounding out the standards are MarineMat, EVA-covered bow and stern platforms, and a Wet Sounds MC5 stereo.

Tested: Read Our Test of the Starcraft SV 16 OB

The SV 16 carries its beam well forward in typical Starcraft fashion, which results in a ­rectangular profile that notably increases ­interior space. Seating is arrayed into three primary zones. Two lengthwise couches line the bow, inviting a pair of passengers to stretch out and lounge, or multiple family members or friends to sit up and socialize. Aft, a three-­passenger bench spans from helm to portside gunwale. When on the hook or at the sandbar, its wrap-over backrests cushion passengers ­sitting on a third area: the upper deck of the two-tiered EVA-covered swim platform. The latter is a great spot to hang out or gear up for watersports. Stowage awaits below for wet gear such as snorkeling gear or watersports towropes.

Our test boat was equipped with a 70 hp ­Yamaha outboard, a rig that delivered reliability, fuel efficiency, and enough performance to satisfy the target audience. Slam down the throttle, and the boat reaches a top speed just shy of 31 mph in about 8 seconds flat. Crank the wheel at speed, and the craft nimbly carves a turn, staying hooked up at the stern. Encounter some unwelcome chop on the way back to the dock, and you can hold plane as low as 16 mph. As to that fuel efficiency, we noted a mere 6 gph consumption at that top speed, burning only 2.9 gph at a comfortable cruising speed. The combo makes the SV 16 ­affordable not only on the showroom floor, but also through years of ownership.

Tahoe 1950

Tahoe is another builder that’s dead-set on providing new-boat opportunities for first-time buyers, and you can find these boats all over the country, typically on display at your local Bass Pro Shop. The 1950 is a smooth family runabout that provides a stable entertainment platform while not breaking the bank. In today’s world, a family boat that sells for just $44,000, complete with trailer, is a thrifty winner. With that, Tahoe punches above its fighting weight.

Rigged with a Mercury 150 FourStroke outboard, the 1950 proved to us that it’s ready for towed watersports and family cruising to the sandbar or raft-up cove. Hitting 30 mph from an in-gear idle in just 6.5 seconds, we topped out at just under 49 mph with a 17-pitch Mercury Enertia propeller. At a best cruise of 28 mph (3,500 rpm), the Mercury was sipping fuel at just 4.9 gph—that’s nearly 6 miles per gallon. With a 40-gallon tank, that’s a 209-mile range, leaving 10 percent ­reserve in the tank. Translated, that’s a weekend of fun for maybe $150 in gas.

Tested: Read Our Test of the Tahoe 1950

Tahoe calls its hull design “Powerglide,” with a reverse chine and HydroStep lifting strakes for increased overall performance. It works—the hull is nimble, carving turns and slicing through wind chop and boat wakes with the sure-footedness of a larger hull.

You might think that as a high-volume builder, Tahoe might skimp on quality. You’d be wrong: The 1950 is 100 percent hand-laid, no wood involved, with a full-length ­foam-filled stringer grid. Visually, it’s clean and crisp—the full-hull and deck gelcoat colors (white, black, blue, red and gray are available) are well-complemented by the ­vinyl interior.

Ten can ride; there’s wraparound bow seating with storage underneath, an aft ­L-lounger, and a standard Bimini top. ­Folding stainless-steel ladders fore and aft make boarding easier. The captain sits on a plush swiveling/sliding bolstered bucket seat behind a fully digital dash with toggle switches to control all boat functions. An in-floor ski locker and removable aluminum watersports tow are standard, as are a digital depth gauge and four-speaker Bluetooth sound system. If you’d rather fish, an aerated 11.5-gallon livewell in the bow, coupled with optional fishing packages (including trolling motor, graphs, livewell, added batteries and chargers), can add even more versatility.

Tracker Pro Team 175 Tournament Edition

Not everybody who wants to go bass fishing needs a rocket ship that can blast out of the hole and soar to 90 mph. Sometimes 40 mph is all you need to enjoy a full day of looking for lunkers. Enter the Tracker Pro Team 175 Tournament Edition.

This well-equipped fishing platform brings style, fishability, and performance together at a real value. Rigged with a thrifty Mercury 75 hp outboard, its no-haggle price is just $24,715 (plus freight and tax), and it scoots to 41 mph. It’s a ­strong-running and well-equipped fishing package.

Tested: Read Our Test of the Tracker Pro Team 175 Tournament Edition

Mercury’s 75 hp FourStroke, fitted with a 17-pitch standard ­aluminum propeller, zings this 17-footer to 30 mph in just 7.6 seconds. Fuel costs won’t break the bank: At its best cruise speed of 25 mph at 3,500 rpm, it burns just 3 gph to deliver over 8 mpg. With a 21.5-gallon tank, that calculates to a 160-mile range, leaving 10 percent in reserve. A whole weekend of fishing for less than a hundred-dollar bill is truly economical.

For its low price tag, the Pro Team 175’s offerings are top-shelf in construction and accessories. The hull is all-welded 0.100-gauge aluminum and carries a limited lifetime warranty. It’s finished in Diamond Coat powder-coat, available only on Tracker hulls. Lifting strakes and chines are pressed in—not riveted on—for a cleaner look, less drag on the water, and more durability. It’s a quiet ride, which comes from better hull stiffening and added foam (10 percent more than required by USCG standards) for sound deadening.

A Minn Kota Edge 12-volt trolling motor is standard, mounted on the bow, with a recessed tray for the control pedal. Upgrading to 24-volt is an option. An elevated bow deck houses a center tackle-storage locker flanked by port and starboard rod lockers that accommodate up to 16 8-foot rods. A 30-quart insulated cooler is standard.

The driver’s console features a new roto-molded design, and is fitted with a Tracker touchscreen digital gauge display and standard Lowrance Hook graph. Single-cable no-feedback steering is standard and was smooth in our tests. New, more-comfortable pilot and navigator seats make long rides easier and less tiring. An elevated aft casting deck features molded dual storage boxes, each capable of housing three Plano 3700 tackle boxes. A 21-gallon aerated livewell with ­divider, timer and pump-out system is standard.

All that—plus a custom trailer—makes this the MVP in out-the-door, ­fishing-ready family fun.

Highfield Velox 420

The new Highfield Velox 420 is a welcome addition to the entry-level-boat segment. Priced at $36,000, this jet-powered RIB is intended to fill the compact runabout niche somewhat abandoned by other popular boat brands. Highfield is pitching the Velox not only as a tender, but also as a family boat ideal for younger captains.

The 14-foot-7-inch Velox 420 features a powder-coated aluminum hull surrounded by Orca Hypalon tubes. The hull incorporates the boat deck, integrated 14.5-gallon fuel tank, and swim platform. The helm console and bow boarding step are molded fiberglass. The boat is powered by a 90 hp Rotax 900 ACE jet drive, the same reliable three-cylinder 899cc powertrain in the Sea-Doo Spark watercraft. A fiberglass insert forms the jet-pump intake and the aft center of the running surface to provide efficient intake flow in a shape that would be challenging to form in aluminum.

The aluminum hatch over the engine bay is also the base for the main seat—wide enough for two or a tight-fit three people. The pivoting backrest enables facing forward or aft. The deep boarding platform is covered with the same MarineMat material that covers the deck. There’s also a small seat on the forward helm console and a seat pad in the boarding step. Stowage space is limited to some room within the console, accessed by raising the forward seat.

The helm console holds a Medallion touchscreen display that can be used to select Rotax performance modes (Eco, Docking and Ski). Switches for lighting and the head for the optional audio system ($920) are to the left of the wheel. There is a wireless-device charger next to the display screen. The console is topped with a small windscreen and a robust grab handle.

The jet pushed this 1,060-pound vessel to a top speed of 38 mph with a light load. Performance is typical jet: Strong acceleration starts at about 5,500 rpm, and at speed in a hard turn, the radius tightens until the boat starts to slide a bit, but this is easy to control. Fuel economy is outstanding at better than 6 mpg at cruising speeds, for a range of about 100 miles. That’s a lot of fun per gallon.

Alumacraft Trophy 185X Sport

Multispecies fishing boats have been a ­staple of lakes, rivers, and inland waterways forever because of their utility and versatility. They offer a way to get fishing without paying more than you did for your house. The Alumacraft Trophy 185X Sport does all that with an added twist—no outboard ­motor hanging off the transom.

That’s because the Trophy 185X Sport features a Rotax 150S motor that resides below the Max Deck, its horizontal powerhead sealed in a watertight case. Moving the engine inboard means extra deck space for you and your crew, and also not having to worry about a prop in the water in skinny situations or while taking a dip at anchor.

Tested: Read Our Test of the Alumacraft 185X Sport

The extra space is amplified when you consider one of Alumacraft’s key upgrades. Our test boat came with the new Max Deck option that features 25 square feet of elevated casting deck. The Max Deck surface is covered with soft MarineMat and has LinQ integrated attachment points to secure an accessory cooler or cargo box. The deck also has a pair of fishing seat bases, hatches covering a pair of small storage compartments, and a sturdy grab handle for the ­retractable boarding ladder.

The Max Deck is great for angling, but it also provides extra space for family boating—room to lounge, a built-in diving platform or a spot to secure a tube. Alumacraft Trophy models feature a deluxe interior, padded backrests on the front of the consoles, a full-height windshield, and a ­four-speaker audio system.

New for 2025 is a redesigned, injection-­molded helm with a standard 7-inch ­Garmin EchoMap multifunction display for instrumentation, a switch panel to the lower right, and room on top of the dash for two 12-inch displays. A new bow control center provides a recessed position for a ­12-inch graph, plus a well for storing a trolling-motor pedal, a tool holder, and cellphone holder with a USB port. A new Flex Module system offers the choice of three ­configurations at the aft end of the cockpit: Flex 29 with a carpeted bench/step and a 29-gallon livewell, Flex FSX with a pair of jump seats flanking a 30-gallon livewell, or Flex 50 with a 50-gallon livewell.

The Trophy rides the Alumacraft 2XB double-plated aluminum hull with a ­seamless one-piece bottom designed to be durable and feel solid on the water. The running surface is slightly concave from keel to chine to help the boat carve smartly through turns. A pair of 16-inch X-Pod ­extensions flanking the drive are designed to improve planing performance and ­stability at rest.

Essential Gear for the First-Time Boat Buyer

Before heading out on your maiden voyage you’ll want to make sure that your new boat is stocked with the proper gear, and that you have some of the basics for when you return home.

• Life Jackets/PFDs
• Docklines
• Fenders
• Anchor
• VHF Radio
• First Aid Kit
• Fire Extinguisher
• Flare Kit
• Boat Hook
• Boat Soap, Brush, Sponge
• Boat Cover
• Cooler

Upgrade!

• GPS
• Subwoofer/Extra Speakers/Amp
• Towing Subscription (Sea Tow; BoatUS)

Also: First time buyers should consider taking a boating safety course, These can be taken online or in-person. In fact they are required to do so in many localities. Get more info about safety courses and boater licensing and find a directory of boating safety courses, here.

The post Best Boat Choices for First-Time Boat Buyers appeared first on Boating Mag.

In 2016, Suzuki unveiled its new 2.9L inline four-cylinder DF200A outboard, which was lighter and more fuel efficient than its V-6 model that had been on the market since 2004. Confident that its engineers had invented a better ­mousetrap, Suzuki discontinued selling the 3.6L V-6 DF 200 in the US when the I-4 was introduced, but the V-6 was still offered in ­select overseas markets.

Feedback from boaters and ­dealers, however, indicated that there was still demand for a 200 hp V-6 in North America by those who could benefit from the ­increased low-end torque and snappier throttle response that the 3.6L block produces. Suzuki’s competitors—Mercury, Yamaha and Honda—still offer V-6 200 models, and Mercury even offers a V-8 200 in its ProXS line that also includes a 300 hp version, using the same 4.2L powerhead. So, for 2025, Suzuki went back to the future and reintroduced updated versions of its 200, 225 and 250 hp motors.

Although most outboard ­engines don’t share a platform with cars, the automotive industry has gradually shifted its internal-combustion motors to ­more-fuel-efficient smaller ­displacement engines. As a result, the once-ubiquitous V-8s were usurped by V-6 engines, and then largely replaced by inline-4-­cylinder engines. But the missions for boats and cars are not the same. Although car engines need blasts of power to merge onto highways and to pass, many engines use ­turbocharging for an extra kick. Also, wheeled vehicles don’t have as much drag and usually stay within the lower range of rpm due to ­having a multispeed transmission.

Due to the drag of water, boats demand more from their engines, and their load is like that of a car constantly going up a steep hill. Unlike automobile powerplants, boat engines never coast. In rough seas, snappy acceleration and excellent torque are needed to stay on plane at lower speeds for safety. As the old saw goes, there’s no replacement for displacement. So, the “new” V-6 makes sense for certain applications. But inquiring minds wanted to see how each iteration of the Suzuki 200 performed with different loads. So we put both versions to the test on the transom of a Carolina Skiff 21 Ultra Elite. Here’s what we found.

Head-to-Head

For the test, Boating Editor-in-Chief Kevin Falvey, photographer/­videographer Michelle Gaylord and I converged on the Suzuki Marine Technical Center USA in Panama City, Florida, in December. Winter weather in the Panhandle can be a crapshoot, and we lucked out with bluebird skies, gentle winds, and temperatures in the low 70s. (A month later, Panama City was covered in 5 inches of snow, beating the record of 3 inches set in 1895.)

To reduce variables, we tested both engines on the same Carolina Skiff  21 Ultra Elite with identical payloads, which included topping off the 52-gallon fuel tank before each test. First, we ran a standard Boating Certified Test on both engines with two people aboard, totaling 434 pounds of buffet-loving human ballast. Gas weighs 6.1 pounds per gallon, which adds another 317 pounds. This Carolina Skiff model requires a 25-inch ­motor, so the first test was with ­Suzuki DF200A, an inline-4 cylinder outboard weighing 529 pounds. The boat is 20 feet, 9 ­inches long with an 8-foot beam, and has a dry weight of 2,636 pounds and a passenger capacity of 14 people (you can play musical chairs to determine who gets a seat). Our 200 hp test engines were at the top of the boat’s allowable limit.

For the second round of ­testing, we added 400 pounds of lead-filled bags strategically placed throughout the boat where people would usually be sitting. We also welcomed aboard the test ­center’s engine guru, general manager David Greenwood, who has been with Suzuki for nearly four decades, weighs 165 pounds, and is evidently a salad lover who believes in working out. We focused on cruising speeds, top end, and acceleration for these runs to see how the numbers would change under heavier load.

Tale of the Tape

In this corner, the younger 2.9L ­inline 4-cylinder DF200A comes in shaft lengths of 20 inches and 25 inches, weighing 518 pounds and 529 pounds, respectively, for the mechanical shift models. The digital shift option adds 2 pounds to each. The 200 hp I-4 is the most powerful engine in the 2.9L platform family that also includes 150 and 175 hp versions. The peak output of its ­alternator reaches 44 amps.

One aspect of this motor that separates it from all other 200 hp motors on the market is its ultra-low 2.5-to-1 gear ratio, which ­allows it to swing larger-diameter props, and so move more water. All other 200 outboards on the market have higher gear ratios that range from 1.85-to-1 (­Mercury FourStroke 200 V-6) to 2.0-to-1 (Honda V-6 BF200). For our test, the inline-4 DF200A used a ­15-by-21-inch three-blade stainless-steel Suzuki Watergrip prop, which is about the average diameter of a large pizza.

In the other corner is the ­updated version of the 200 hp V-6 engine, now called the DF200T. It comes in three different shaft lengths; the 20-inch model is popular for use on bass boats and weighs 582 pounds, and the 25-inch version, which we used for this test, weighs 606 pounds. The V-6 200 is the only Suzuki 200 offered in a 30-inch version, which weighs 626 pounds and is targeted for larger offshore boats. The DF200T is the least ­powerful in the 3.6L platform, which also features a 225 and 250 hp model. It features a 54-amp alternator, which is 10 more amps than the inline-4.

The DF200T has the second-lowest gear ratio in the industry for 200 hp outboards, with a 2.29-to-1 ratio. For our test, this motor swung a 15¼-by-19-inch three-blade stainless-steel Watergrip prop.

Efficiency and Performance

By pressing the Easy Start button, the DF200A fired right up and settled into a 600 rpm smoke-free idle, registering a near-silent 56 decibels. Despite having only four cylinders, its vibration was nil, in contrast to the old two-stroke days when a start-up was announced with a cloud of smoke and an idling engine that shook like someone in the first stages of hypothermia. The first test we performed was to measure its acceleration. Then, starting at 1,000 rpm, we bumped up the throttle in 500 rpm increments while measuring speed, fuel burn, sound levels, and the angle at which the boat was running. We performed two runs in opposite directions to account for wind and current, then ­averaged the results. The only problem we encountered was that the boat would start porpoising at higher speeds, which was corrected using a little downforce deflection from the ­Lenco trim tabs.

Acceleration was smooth and linear, and the 21 Ultra Elite accelerated to 30 mph in a ­respectable 10.1 seconds. We also tested midrange acceleration from 25 to 40 mph, which took 9.7 seconds. The DF200A’s fuel economy was impressive, and at a slow-troll speed of 1,000 rpm, it sipped only 0.6 gallons an hour, which means it could theoretically putter along at 3.9 mph for nearly 87 hours on a full 52-gallon fuel load. Its best fuel economy was at 4,000 rpm, which pushed the Carolina Skiff to 25.5 mph. At this speed, it achieved an impressive 4.17 mpg, translating to a range of 195 miles. At 4,500 rpm, it reached 31 mph and came within a Visine squirt of fuel away from hitting 4 mpg (3.97). Trimming out the engine until just before the ­Watergrip propeller lost its grip saw a peak rpm of 6,150, which was 50 rpm over its published max rpm range. In other words, we ran it like we stole it. At its top speed of 45.9 mph, the Suzuki 200A burned only 18.7 gph, yielding 2.45 mpg.

Swapping Out Motors

After we tested the inline-4 DF200A, the Suzuki tech team—doing its best imitation of a NASCAR pit crew—switched the Carolina Skiff’s engine to the V-6 DF200T. First, they tilted the engine vertically, disconnected its battery cables, unplugged the main harness from the motor to the helm, and disconnected the fuel line and the sub-electrical lead. Suzuki engineers made the process easy by providing lifting hooks on the motor, so the crew used them to support the engine’s weight with a forklift and chain, then unbolted the motor from the boat and placed it on a stand. Installing the motor was the reverse of the removal procedure. The elapsed time was about 45 minutes.

Big Displacement Energy

Like the inline-4 model, the V-6 200 fired up quickly after a push of the keyless-start button, which wasn’t available in its earlier iteration, as was the easy-start feature. The bigger block was two decibels louder at idle—58 dB(A)—but that level was barely audible. The V-6 acceleration felt more muscular, and we recorded a zero-to-30 mph time of 8.5 seconds, 1.6 seconds faster than the I-4. The midrange acceleration test saw a time from 25 mph to 40 mph of 7.5 seconds, which was 2.2 seconds faster. The faster acceleration times illustrate the advantage of larger displacement. In simple terms, with greater room in the combustion chamber, more air and gas can be jammed in before the spark plug ignites it. But there’s no such thing as a free lunch in physics because burning more gas for improved acceleration reduces fuel economy, as the numbers revealed.

The best cruising speed for the ­V-6-powered Carolina Skiff was also at 4,000 rpm, pushing it to 26.5 mph and netting 3.34 mpg, which is 0.83 mpg less than the I-4. This mileage was about 20 percent worse, reducing the boat’s range by 39 miles. At wide-open throttle, the V-6 reached 46.6 mph at 6,000 rpm, which was 0.3 mph faster than the I-4, illustrating that 200 hp is 200 hp, no matter the displacement. The fuel burn at WOT was 20.3 gph, translating to 2.3 mpg—not too far off the 2.45 mph that the I-4 achieved.

Load ’Er Up!

With the 900 pounds of ballast loaded, the tank full, and Falvey, Greenwood and me on board, we headed off into the West Bay section of Robinson Bayou. The ­measured numbers can be found on the performance charts below.

Read Next: The Benefits of Digital Controls on Suzuki AP Outboards

In Conclusion

So, which Suzuki outboard is best? After crunching the numbers, it’s a split decision. Get the 2.9L I-4 DF200A if you want the best fuel economy available and have a boat that performs better with a lighter outboard. The 3.6L V-6 DF200T is ideal for those who have heavier boats or carry more payload and want better acceleration and ­throttle response.

Speed, Efficiency, Operation

Suzuki 2.9L Inline-4 DF200A

• Number of Cylinders: Inline-4
• Weight, Mechanical Shift: L 518 (20” shaft), X 529 (25” shaft), digital shift, add 2 lb.
• Displacement: 175.9 cu. in., 2,867cc
• Bore and Stroke: 97 mm x 97 mm
• Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
• Alternator Output: 44 amps
• Operating Range: 5,500-6,100 rpm
• Key Features: Suzuki’s DF200A Lean Burn system uses sensors and its onboard computer to adjust the air/fuel mixture to the optimal level based on real-time information regarding need. The I-4 AP model also features Selective Rotation, which can change the prop’s primary direction of rotation.

Suzuki 3.6L V-6 DF200T

• Number of Cylinders: V-6
• Weight, Mechanical Shift Only: L: 582 (20” shaft), X: 606 (25” shaft), XX: 626 (30” shaft)
• Displacement: 220.5 cu. in., 3,614cc
• Bore and Stroke: 95 mm x 85 mm
• Gear Ratio: 2.29:1
• Alternator Output: 54 amps
• Operating Range: 5,500-6,000 rpm
• Key Features: The DF200T, like the I-4 model, has an offset drive shaft that moves the center of gravity farther forward for better balance. This design also enables a two-stage gear reduction to allow its gear ratio to be low to swing larger props. Variable Valve Timing on both models changes the valve timing to provide better low-end torque and top-end performance.

The post Suzuki V-6 vs. Inline-4 Outboard Test appeared first on Boating Mag.

As recently as this past winter, solid-state batteries were touted as future tech poised to move electric propulsion rapidly forward. Jumping ahead a year, Honda ­announced limited production of these new-generation batteries sometime early in 2025. But, Boating had already tested solid-state batteries in the Electric Legacy, a classic runabout replica collaboration between Elco and Lancer Craft. So, what did we discover about this technology and how it might benefit you?

What Is a Solid-State Battery?

In most batteries, be they lead-acid or lithium, liquid electrolyte facilitates energy transfer between cathode, anode, and electrical equipment. ­Solid-state ­batteries still employ lithium, but the electrolyte is an ultra-thin solid coating. “The US government has been using solid state for 20 years,” says Tom Calef, founder and CEO of Solid State Marine. “The issue has been manufacturing. If that nano-thickness coating isn’t the same every time, you’ll have one cell that stores 100 watt-hours, and the next has only 10.” With those challenges overcome, Calef says his company now offers solid-state marine batteries at competitive prices in voltages and sizes common for marine applications.

What’s Better About Solid State?

Solid electrolyte coatings make solid-state batteries about half the weight of today’s lithium-iron-phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries for the same stored power. There is a bigger advantage though. “It takes a lot less energy to push through a solid material than it does a liquid,” Calef says. That reduced electrical resistance pushes power ­considerably faster from solid-state batteries into electric motors, while generating less heat in the exchange. 

That’s a game-changer: It gives electric-boat motors—and other high-draw marine electrical accessories—all the amps they need. This is especially critical when an electric-powered boat is climbing on plane. An analogy might be running your gas-powered boat with undersize lines or clogged fuel filters. Switching to solid-state batteries is like refitting the entire fuel system and tripling the flow. By starting with much lower resistance, solid-state batteries also continue to provide required amps through their entire capacity even as battery voltage drops and resistance climbs, Calef says, increasing usable watt-hours. Another fuel analogy? It’s like having a pickup tube 20 percent too short on your fuel tank but then getting a new one that goes all the way to the bottom.

Electric Propulsion Benefits

I assumed that an electric Lancer Craft might barely top 25 mph. Replacing gas-powered batteries with wet lithium ­batteries adds some 800 pounds to the original designed weight. That’s hard for a 20-foot runabout to overcome. Instead, the eight solid-state batteries—at 103 pounds each, plus Elco’s 205-pound motor and equipment—weigh 10 percent less than the GM small block, transmission, and full fuel tank. Less weight and more watts result in impressive hole shots and 35 mph top speed, albeit with less range than gas.

What About Other Applications?

In any application, solid-state batteries roughly double conventional LiFePO4 battery run time for the same weight. Both options—solid-state and LiFePO4—offer bigger gains when consolidating battery banks. In one example aboard a 32-foot SeaVee charter boat, Capt. Tristan Raynes replaced three 12-volt AGM 31 series batteries powering his Seakeeper 2. Just one fully charged 27 series battery from Solid State Marine rated at 210 amp-hours lasts an entire charter; in the past, with the three AGM batteries, he needed to run the SeaVee’s twin 300 hp Mercury Verado outboards continuously to power the Seakeeper 2. The boat’s aging LiFePO4 trolling-motor batteries were also ripe for upgrade. Raynes’ Minn Kota 36-volt trolling motor required three conventional LiFePO4 batteries, which didn’t always last all day. Now, just one 31-series solid-state battery increases run time by 20 percent. Today’s newest LiFePO4 batteries offer similar consolidation. “I replaced six batteries with just two and took 400 pounds off the boat and added capacity,” Raynes says.

Longevity and Charging

Calef expects similar lifespans for both solid-state and conventional lithium batteries, retaining 95 percent capacity after 1,500 cycles and 75 percent after 2,500 total cycles. That’s a full discharge every day for seven years. Most ­off-the-shelf lithium-battery AC chargers are compatible with Solid State Marine batteries; Calef mentions NOCO and Victron as examples. 

Calef also sees safety gains. Though today’s conventional LiFePO4 marine batteries have enjoyed a remarkable safety record to date, it is conceivable that a pierced LiFePO4 battery could ooze electrolyte that could create shorts and overheat the cells, potentially causing a thermal chain reaction. The solid electrolyte in a solid-state battery won’t leak, thus preventing a short if pierced. Of course, large power sources are problematic around seawater, and salt water contacting lithium directly in any battery type creates volatile hydrogen gas.

Calef sees boat systems moving steadily toward lithium. “In so many applications, lithium technologies are dramatically better in storing electrical energy than lead,” he says. “With solid-state batteries, we’re bringing more of the benefit of lithium to the ­boating market.”

The post Solid-State Batteries for Boaters appeared first on Boating Mag.

Marine VHF antennas have not changed much since VHF radios were adopted by recreational boaters in the 1960s. We have seen improved durability and materials, optimized transmission and reception range, and enhanced mounting systems. Yet, the function of a VHF antenna has remained much the same—until now.

Shakespeare Marine, a long-established leader in marine antennas, has reimagined what a VHF antenna can be with the new CommLight. The 6.5-foot tall, 6 dB gain, and 5 MHz bandwidth CL-6 antenna not only offers outstanding transmission and reception capabilities, but it is also the first antenna to offer LED lighting. Controlled with a mobile app, boaters can adjust the vibrant glow of the antenna across the full RGB color spectrum and cue up flashing modes and adjust the pulse speed. It has multiple presets, and the CL-6 can sync its changing colors to the tempo of downloaded music. 

Lighting aside, the CL-6 features brass and copper elements for range and reception, a corrosion-resistant stainless-steel ferrule designed to fit a standard threaded (­­1-inch diameter/14 threads per inch) ratchet mount, a durable high-gloss PMMA antenna finish, a 15-foot RG-58 coaxial cable with a PL-259 connector, and a 25-foot two-piece power cable with a controller that connects wirelessly to your mobile device. 

Because you need to route and install both a standard coax cable and a power cable, retrofitting your boat with the CL-6 differs a bit from installing a replacement VHF antenna, but this DIY project is still fairly easy. 

Skill Level: 2 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 3-4 hours

Tools and Supplies

• Shakespeare Marine ­CommLight VHF antenna ($199.95; thegpsstore.com)
• Shakespeare Marine 4187 or 4187-HD ratchet mount (westmarine.com)
• Power drill and bit set
• Phillips screwdriver
• Socket wrench and box/open wrench sets
• Solder gun
• Resin-core solder
• Marine crimp terminals with heat-shrink collars
• Heavy-duty self-adhesive 1-inch Velcro strips
• Crimping tool
• Heat gun
• Zip ties
• Blue Sea Systems medium cable clam No. 1002

Download the App

Before getting started, it’s a good idea to download the free Shakespeare ­CommLight app on your mobile device. For Android, visit Google Play; for iPhones, go to the App Store. Once it’s on your phone, scroll through the functions, which include the on/off button at the top of the homepage, connecting to Bluetooth, a color wheel, pulsating and flashing color modes, music-sync mode, brightness and more. Having the app on your phone ahead of time will allow you to confirm that the illumination system is operational before you finalize the installation and button up everything on your boat. 

Mount the Antenna

If you do not already have an existing VHF antenna on your boat, choose a mounting location that is as high as possible (such as on a hardtop), free from obstructions, and as far as possible from any other antennas. Use a Shakespeare 4187 or 4187-HD or similar ratchet mount (sold separately), and ­follow the directions with the mount that you have chosen. If your boat has an existing VHF antenna that you are planning to use with the CL-6, remove the old antenna completely, and then thread the ferrule of the new antenna onto the ratchet mount, and tighten by hand. Do not use pliers; they can scratch the ferrule.

Route the Cables

Route the RG-58 and power cables from the antenna through the same pass-through that you used for the previous antenna. Once through, route the RG-58 cable to the VHF radio, keeping it away from electrical equipment and other cables. Roll the cable in a coil of at least 8 inches, and stow it out of the way. Install the PL-259 connector (­supplied) on the RG-58 cable according to the connector’s instructions. These call for soldering the connector to the cable. For a video tutorial on soldering on a PL-259 connector, visit Boating’s YouTube channel.

Install the Control Box

Position the compact illumination-control box in a spot that can receive Bluetooth signals from an onboard mobile device. The control box should also be close to an onboard power source. There is no supplied mounting system for the control box, but we recommend using a strip of heavy-duty Velcro with peel-and-stick adhesive (not supplied) to secure the lightweight module. Add a 3-amp fuse or breaker to the red positive wire from the power cable, and connect it to a switchable 12-volt DC power source. Connect the black negative wire from the power cable to the ­onboard ground circuit.

Read Next: How to Make DSC Fully Functional on a VHF Radio

Route and Connect the Power Cable

Run the power cable from the pass-through to the illumination-control box, and connect these two elements using the special cable-to-cable watertight plug, ensuring that the small pin connectors align properly and that the two knurled turnbuckles thread tightly against each other. Switch on power to the control box using the CommLight app previously installed on your mobile device, and test the system and its various features to ensure full ­functionality. Then secure all of the cables along their runs with zip ties to prevent ­chafing or other damage.

The post Installing a Lighted VHF Antenna appeared first on Boating Mag.

Be it Garmin LiveScope, Lowrance Active Target 2 or Humminbird Mega Live 2, live sonar seems to have popped up on bass boats overnight, but saltwater anglers have not adopted it in similar numbers—at least not yet.

Live sonar—perhaps more ­popularly known as forward-­facing sonar, or FFS—shows you what is in the sonar cone in real time, has a near ­180-degree ­coverage, and everything in that arc is instantly painted. Movements of fish are displayed as they occur, much like medical ultrasound imaging. 

In shallower water, landscape images offer ­outstanding ­situational awareness of all the water in and beyond ­casting range. Forward-fishing ­orientation of the transducer is often used in deeper water, and downward-­facing sonar is most effective in bottomfishing.

Rich Kale is about as hardcore an angler as can be. Based in ­Punta Gorda, Florida, he fishes the waters of Charlotte Harbor, Peace River and the Myakka River almost every day. If Kale is spied on the water, anglers get as close to him as they dare. He’s an influential angler and is likely responsible for leading many tarpon fishermen away from ­casting ladyfish and crabs in favor of DOA Bait Busters. He installed Lowrance’s Active Target sonar last year and found it so ­incredibly effective, his salty friends ­began installing live sonar as well.

Read Next: Using Live Sonar to Catch More Fish

Kale counts his tarpon bites and hookups, not his landings. He reports that his bites went up tenfold after he started using Active Target. While the Boca Grande Pass is most famous for its dense tarpon schools and even denser angling fleet, Kale eschews the crowds, using his sonar in the wide-open areas of the harbor and up in the Peace River.

“In open water, I don’t cast ­until I pick them up on ­sonar,” he says. “I can count the ­number of fish in pods, see which way they are moving and how deep they are. It’s easy to put a bait in front of them, and I can see if the fish are interested in it or not. People think it can’t work well in salt water due to the water density, but after using it, if ­somebody told me I couldn’t have it anymore, I’d take up bowling.”

The density of salt water does reduce the range of FFS by up to 40 percent. Live sonar uses a very high frequency and ping rate to give the instant picture on the screen. The higher the sonar frequency, the more detailed the image, but the saltwater density reduces signal clarity by resisting high-frequency returns.

That’s not a problem in fresh water, and FFS is such an ­effective tool for bass fishermen that none are competitive without it. It has changed the pace of bass ­tournament fishing. Anglers don’t waste a cast on waters that aren’t showing fish on FFS. For nationally televised tournaments, the use of live sonar has taken away much of the visual appeal of ­fishing. The anglers just stare at their ­sonar ­displays until they see a fish. Tournament directors have begun to limit the use of FFS, in part because it’s boring to watch.

Another drawback for ­saltwater anglers is the awkward mounting of the transducer, according to Garmin’s David Dunn. LiveScope XR is Garmin’s most powerful FFS.

Live sonar has to be mounted on a trolling-motor shaft or a stalk attached to the gunwale, and it is difficult to deploy and retract, especially in rough seas. Garmin doesn’t offer mounting stalks and directs its customers to OEM makers—and there are several of them.

“For fresh water, we make our trolling motors capable of having a transducer mounted on the motor shaft, but then the direction of the motor determines what you can see,” Dunn says.

Matthew Laster, integrated ­systems director, fishing systems for Navico and Lowrance, agrees on the convenience factor but has another spin on slow adoption rates. “Freshwater bass anglers are highly publicized and televised. Saltwater fishing doesn’t have near as much visibility to spread the word.”

Ed Zyack is a Florida charter captain and has been fishing the waters for decades, and doing so as a Humminbird promoter. “Mega Live is a great tool,” he says. “I had several charter guys on the west coast [of Florida] using it, and it was so effective that they wouldn’t talk about it.” It was the antithesis of great sponsorship marketing…until the closely guarded secret got out and spread like wildfire in August.

Hummingbird recently introduced Mega Live 2—an ­upgraded version with more image clarity in both auto and manual adjustable modes. “It is an enormous improvement in saltwater ­capability,” Zyack says. “You can just turn it on, and it takes very little adjustment to optimize the ­image.”

One thing all our experts agreed on is that saltwater anglers are among the fiercest ­proponents of angling tradition and are ­highly suspicious of new techniques. But live sonar is changing their minds.

The post Live Sonar for Saltwater Fishing appeared first on Boating Mag.

We are deep into mud season here in the North Woods, that interminable meteorological period that has winter lingering and spring reluctant. My affluent farmer neighbors have escaped to a warm beach, maybe Gulfport or Biloxi, and it’s quiet at the Lake View Inn. Perfect time for me to work on my annual list. I hunch over the worn blue Formica bar top and draw two columns on the back of a napkin.

“Working on that list again this year?” Wally asked from behind the bar. “Does it ever help?”

“I like to start with regrets from last season in one column,” I replied, “so maybe I won’t repeat those mistakes this year.”

“Ah, regrets,” crooned my good friend Chuck Larson from down the bar. “I’ve had a few. But then again—”

“So, for example, the weekend of boating I missed out on last year for my niece’s wedding. This year, if it’s a daughter getting married, I might attend, but I won’t go deeper on the family tree,” I said.

“And I’m going to skip taking the old Ford to the Iola car show, even if my departed father rolls in his grave. This year I’m all-in on the boat.”

Here’s the reality of boating at our latitude. The traditional pleasure-boating season starts on Memorial Day weekend and ends on Labor Day. That’s 15 weekends for a working person. You can count on at least two of those weekends getting rained out, and a couple more “rained out” because your wife—in my case, the deputy medical examiner—is on call and can’t leave the house. Another two will probably be lost to an unavoidable social obligation, a wedding or a graduation or, worst of all, a birthday for a toddler grandchild. Forget about the big holiday weekends, when the launch ramps are mobbed and too many other captains on the lake are deep into a six-pack. If you have a 14-foot vintage runabout like mine, there will be days when it’s too windy and rough to launch the boat and have any fun. Next thing you know, the leaves are turning and you’ve still got a jug full of pre-mix in the shop, and you realize how little your hour meter has turned.

Read Next: Top Gear for Boating Adventures

“It’s going to be different this year,” I said. “In this column, I’m listing Plans for 2025. I’m going to start by getting the Bearing Buddy kit that I bought last year installed on the trailer, and the vintage spring cleats mounted on the gunwales so we can hang fenders. I’ve got four weekends devoted to wood-boat shows in Wisconsin and Minnesota. And I’m going to propose that we celebrate the grandkid’s birthdays on the boat!”

“That last one is brilliant,” Chuck said. “Do you think your Evinrude Lark could pull a small tube? It’s a vintage boat, so maybe you need to put them in an old tractor tube and pull that around.”

“It’s still going to rain,” Wally said. “And the wind will still blow.”

Maybe we’ll get a nice drought this year. Regrets? I’m hoping for too few to mention this season.

The post Setting Goals for the New Boating Season appeared first on Boating Mag.

The trailer tongue jack supports the boat trailer when it is not hooked up to your tow vehicle. These come in a variety of types, and some boaters might wonder which is best for them. I have used an assortment of tongue jacks and compiled the following points that I suggest buyers consider. Check out these tips. 

Weight Capacity

The tongue jack must be rated to handle the tongue weight of your trailer. This is typically somewhere between 10 and 15 percent of the weight of the boat and trailer. ­Except for very light, little boats, I recommend going up one size when choosing which weight capacity to use. This will result in longer life.

Travel

The amount of ­travel that a tongue jack provides is the range of height it can be used in. You need the tongue jack to be tall enough to support the tongue so that the boat is at an aftward angle for good drainage during storage, and so that it can reach, and be r­emoved from, your truck’s hitch ball. A jack of the right weight capacity will offer sufficient travel; it doesn’t hurt to take some measurements before you place your order or bring one home from the store.

Wheel or Foot

Tongue jacks with wheels work for boats, up to about 5,000 pounds. Select a double-wheel model for heavier boats. The wheel, or wheels, allow moving the trailer when not connected to a tow vehicle. You might need to put a trailer into a very tight place or you might find moving the trailer a few ­inches ­helpful when trying to connect to the tow vehicle. A wheel helps in these scenarios, though the ­rougher the ground, the less functional the wheel. A nonrolling jack with a fixed foot is used for the heaviest trailered boats (you can’t move big boats without a vehicle anyway). A fixed-foot jack is also better if the trailer lives on rough or uneven ground when disconnected from the tow vehicle. It will be more stable and isn’t likely to move. A cup, or doughnut can be purchased to prevent a wheeled jack from moving.

Read Next: Planning for a Boat-Trailer Breakdown

Fit

Different trailer tongues are made from ­different-size channels. Some are 3-by-3 inches, some are ­3-by-4 inches, and some big ­trailers are 3-by-5 inches. In most ­cases, choosing an appropriate weight rating will be choosing a jack with the appropriate-size clamp. Still, measure your trailer’s tongue dimensions before buying to be sure.

Operation

Most ­boat-trailer jacks are operated manually. The boater cranks the handle to move the jack up and down and raise or lower the boat. Other jacks are available today that work ­using an electric drill as a motor to ­operate the jack. Others are even ­self-propelled.

Trailer Tongue-Jack Selections

The post Choosing the Right Trailer Tongue Jack appeared first on Boating Mag.

Removing and replacing batteries from boats is an age-old challenge. Batteries are heavy, and they are often housed in small spaces. This combination can make it difficult to handle batteries for DIY boat owners. In this piece, we aim to provide some insights for installing and removing batteries that prove safer and easier for you. These tips are not intended to be universal. Situations vary. Take what you need, and leave the rest.

OEM Straps

Many batteries come from the factory with a strap attached. These straps usually snap in on the sides of the battery. You’ll see the molded-in slots if your boat battery originally came with a handle. The handles are often removed for installation in a boat in order to make more room for cables. ­Unfortunately, this can make battery removal from a tight space difficult. Know that you can buy such battery handles on the internet via eBay and other sites. Search your battery make and model. You also might be able to get some for free from the battery maker, the battery seller or your boat dealer. Just ask.

Battery Carriers

There are a variety of devices—most often called battery carriers—available from tool stores, auto stores and home centers. These can be used if the handle is missing, or for batteries that have molded-in recesses on the sides for handholds that don’t work well in confined spaces where a two-handed grip on the sides can’t be achieved. Some of these are rigid handles. Others are straps. What these devices have in common is that they grab or hook under a protruding lip or ridge at the top of the battery. When you go to lift, the weight of the battery itself helps provide a good connection to the battery. Be careful that a metal carrier does not touch the battery terminals. Also, do not use any carrier designed to lift the battery by its terminals.

Drop Your Pants

Even if the allotted space is so tight that you can’t fully lift the ­battery, the ­ability to partially lift a ­battery can be combined with a push or a pull, making all the difference in handling batteries aboard boats. This happens to be the situation aboard my own boat. The hatch opening is not big enough to get two arms through at the same time. Furthermore, the batteries sit below the level of the hatch opening. I could “one-arm” the group 24 batteries originally installed. When I repowered with an engine requiring larger batteries, I could no longer apply enough strength to remove the battery with one arm extended inside the hatch. There’s plenty of room in the compartment; it’s just that the hatch opening is tight. Anyway, by tilting the battery forward and looping my pants belt around and under the aft part of the battery, I can use one hand to pull on the other ends of the belt outside the opening while lifting in the opening with the other hand. In this way, I can move the battery to a halfway position in the hatch opening. From there, ­Robert’s my father’s brother.

Read Next: AGM vs. Lithium Batteries

Relocation

In many cases, as boaters repower with newer engines, more battery power will be required to run the advanced electronics inherent. Sometimes the original location of the batteries in the boat simply might not be big enough—or offer large enough access—to install the appropriate battery for the engine. In these cases, it might be better to move the batteries. If this is the solution you need to employ, be sure to upgrade your battery-cable size. Longer runs means increased resistance, which means you need thicker-­diameter cable to achieve the same performance.

The post Tips for Handling Batteries in Awkward Spaces appeared first on Boating Mag.

In the not so distant past, boat owners had a much different audio experience on the water than while driving in the tow vehicle they used to launch it. In the auto, they had high expectations of crystal-clear sound, while on the water, most didn’t expect to even hear their music while the engine was running—and certainly not while underway.

Now, thanks to technological advancements, marine stereos have bridged the gap to bring quality sound on board. Enter Hertz Marine Audio, a relative newcomer to the boating industry that’s putting out some of the ­highest-quality marine stereo components available. Here’s how the company is trying to up the game.

From Cars to Boats

Hertz is owned by ­Elletromedia, an Italian audio company that’s been around since the 1970s and started making high-quality Hertz stereo systems for cars in 1998. After developing a reputation in the automotive ­market, Hertz started making marine stereos in 2016 and have been making inroads into the US market in recent years, both as an ­aftermarket upgrade and appearing as OEM offerings in boat lines such as Tige, Yamaha, and Sea Pro. The goal has been to bring the same high-quality sound that most people associate with their cars to the water.

Capri Source Unit

The Capri Source unit is designed to broadcast high-resolution audio throughout the speaker system on the boat. Its multizone functionality allows you to set up to four independent audio zones on your boat, where listeners can set the volume levels to their liking. So the speakers in the bow, stern, tower and cabin can all be set to different levels by ­different listeners. The Capri’s remote units also have the exact same ­controls as the primary source unit, so the user can go through the same intuitive commands, whether at the helm or the swim platform or lounging belowdecks. Hertz also offers a “black box solution,” where the software can be integrated into your boat’s primary MFD at the helm, eliminating the need for the primary source unit if helm real estate is at a premium for mounting on the dash.

HTX Tower Speakers

The HTX line of tower speakers is built with a sturdy ­UV-resistant cannister that has an IP65 rating (protecting against water and dust) to withstand the harsh marine environment. What ­really sets these speakers apart is Hertz’s common motor technology, which allows Hertz to use a smaller cannister to produce high-quality sound at a high volume. It also ­produces ­excellent clarity.

“We solved the oldest challenge in boating stereos,” says Brian Power, VP of the Hertz Marine Division. “You used to have to choose between ­high-output and high-sound quality. Now you can have both.”

Power noted that the HTX speakers produce loud and clear audio—both for the people in the boat, as well as those “off axis,” ­either on the sandbar or enjoying watersports ­behind the boat.

HMS Subwoofer

The HMS subwoofer is ­designed to overcome one of the biggest challenges of open-space audio: getting a clear and consistent bass sound in an open setting. The HMS subwoofers can handle 500W of continuous power and don’t need to be housed in a dedicated enclosure to produce a high-quality bass sound throughout the boat.

HMX Cockpit Speakers

The HMX coaxial cockpit speakers offer ­s­imilar high-quality casing and large 1.4-inch-diameter tweeter. The tweeter provides sound ­dispersion throughout the boat, covering a broader area and providing a nice tonal quality throughout the boat, while still handling low-end frequency.

Read Next: Installing a Marine Stereo In Your Boat

Venezia V6 Amplifier

The Venezia V6 is a six-channel marine ­amplifier that boosts the quality and fidelity of the speaker output, a necessity in an open-air boat setting. The die-cast aluminum casing withstands marine conditions and ­electromagnetic interference from the other onboard electronic components. Its plug-and-play ­input and output ­connectors make it easy to sync with the other stereo ­components.

What do you get when you put all the Hertz components together? According to Power, “You get a concert-capable product producing sound like you’re in an amphitheater.”

The post Hertz Marine Audio Systems Offer High-Quality Sound appeared first on Boating Mag.

I felt the same during a sea trial of the 2025 AquaSport Center Console at the 2024 Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show using the Avikus Neuboat system. Our pilot skillfully navigated through heavy traffic in the Intracoastal Waterway, as well as narrow canals filled with other boats undergoing trials. One difference: They were looking at the water; we were looking at a Raymarine screen. The radarlike image displayed nearby vessels, their proximity glowing red when close. It was impressive, yes, but unsettling. There was no sound, horn or alarm—just silent data points pulling focus away from the real-world action on deck.

Avikus, a division of HD Hyundai, renowned for its shipbuilding and advanced technologies, is leading the charge in bringing autonomy to the water with its Neuboat Navigation and Docking Solutions—what they call Advanced Driver Assistance Systems for boats. With a new US office in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, Avikus aims to launch its systems in the second quarter of 2025 through partnerships with OEMs and dealers, offering ­special upgrade ­benefits as available.

The technology is split into three segments: Docking (Dock), Navigation (Navi) and Control. Docking ­utilizes six cameras to create a 360-degree view, and using AI to automatically recognize obstacles and distances. It guides boats into slips and docks with precision. Navi uses lidar, one camera, and location (chart) data to identify and calculate the distance both of stationary and moving objects, showing speeds to avoid collisions, as well as route planning. Meanwhile, Control manages throttle and steering, with the option for ­manual override via the wheel. All of this integrates into any display units that have HDMI and touchscreen connectivity, offering captains an impressive suite of ­automated tools.

It’s a natural evolution when you consider how auto-assist technologies have transformed cars. From cruise control and auto-braking in the 1970s to today’s blind-spot detection, track control and auto-emergency braking, the trend toward automation is undeniable. In the marine world, ­several ­manufacturers are now embracing auto-docking, and it’s easy to see the appeal; according to the US Coast Guard, the top two contributors to boating accidents are operator inattention and improper lookout, ­followed by operator inexperience, ­excessive speed, and machinery failure. Having an automated system adds an extra layer of protection that should eliminate a lot of operator error.

Read Next: How to Dock a Single-Engine Inboard Boat

Yet I remain ­respectfully vigilant. Because while autonomous systems aim to reduce human error, they also create a new type of distraction. Should we be focusing on a screen or scanning the horizon? 

And it’s pricey. At ­upwards of $20,000 per package for Dock and Navi (Control is dependent on one or both of the other packages), this technology is hardly accessible for most boaters. It’s a hefty gamble for early adopters, and while these tools will undoubtedly improve over time, there is no substitute for solid boating education and hands-on training.

Boating is unique: There are no brakes, conditions shift constantly, and the stakes are high. While autonomous technologies will likely soon enhance the experience, for now, let’s keep our eyes on the water, watch for navigation markers, and stay mindful of our surroundings and other boats. In the end, the responsibility to boat safely still rests squarely on the captain.

The post Sea Trial of the Avikus Neuboat System appeared first on Boating Mag.