The first spreaders—aka marine floodlights—that I installed on my boat 30 years ago were ITT Jabsco Ray-Line 50-watt 12-volt Halogens. Like most spreaders, they mounted overhead at the back and front of the hardtop and shone down on the deck. They provided plenty of light, but they were relatively large, would grow hot and drew 4 amps, so you didn’t want to leave them on too long with the engine off. 

Since then, marine lighting has undergone a revolution for the better, thanks to light emitting diode technology, which allows for more-compact fixtures, provides more lumens, creates less heat, and consumes less power than comparable incandescent lights. On top of that, LEDs offer a substantially longer service life than do incandescent bulbs.

That makes the LED variety of spreaders attractive to boaters looking to upgrade their onboard lighting. LED spreaders are available from a number of brands, including Lumishore, Lumitech, Scandvik, Seavolt and others. 

For this retrofit, we chose Lumishore’s Eclipse 4-inch bracket-mounted 30-watt floodlight, which pumps out 1,500 fixture lumens of white light and draws a scant 1.7 amps at 12 volts. It features a powder-coated aluminum body, three LED elements, a frosted lens, and an IP68 waterproof rating. The 70- to 90-degree beam creates broad, even light coverage.

Before you get started, be certain that the electrical power is off during the installation. Here’s how to proceed with this project.

Skill Level: 2 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 3 hours without running new wires

Tools and Supplies

• Lumishore Eclipse 4-inch LED bracket-mounted ­floodlight ($198.99; westmarine.com)
• Crimp-on butt connectors with heat-shrink collars
• Diagonal cutter, wire strippers, crimping tool
• Power drill and metric bits
• Countersink bit
• Box/open-end wrench set
• Torque wrench
• Rubber grommets
• Cable gland
• Phillips screwdriver
• Marine sealant
• Heat gun
• Shop rags (to wipe away excess sealant)

Check the Wiring

This retrofit is relatively easy if you can use the same wiring as you did with the old lights. However, inspect the existing wiring and connectors to ensure that there’s no corrosion damage or chafed or broken insulation. Also make sure the wire is of sufficient gauge. If needed, run new American Boat & Yacht Council-approved wiring. Each Lumishore Eclipse spreader circuit requires two wires—a red positive and a black negative—a fuse and a simple on/off switch. To determine the correct gauge-wire and fuse size, visit the Blue Sea System circuit wizard at circuitwizard.bluesea.com. 

Mounting Hole

You might find that the existing mounting hole from the previous light bracket is the same as the single 6.5 mm hole needed for the Lumishore stainless-­steel bracket. If not, drill a new hole, or enlarge an existing hole to 6.5 mm in diameter. For a new installation, select a mounting location that is flat and thick enough for through-bolting the bracket. This could be the edge of a roof of a solid fiberglass hardtop that is at least 1/4-inch in thickness or a vertical or horizontal metal tab that is welded in place on the upper part of the pipework for the top, put there specifically for adding overhead spreaders. 

Install the Bracket

Fix the bracket in the alignment you need for the spreader to shine down onto the deck area. Insert the supplied M6 bolt through the bracket, then insert the M6 bolt through the hole in the mounting surface. The hardware kit includes a nylon locking nut and a washer to put behind the nut. If installing on a fiberglass top, bed the hardware with marine sealant. This step will help prevent cracking, crazing and water seepage. Secure the bracket with the supplied M6 nylon locking nut, and tighten. Louvres in the bracket help keep the bolt head from spinning while tightening the fastener. 

Mount the Spreader

Position the Lumishore Eclipse spreader light in the bracket so that the triplex wire is on the top side. Then mount the light to the installed bracket using the additional supplied M6 bolt, as well as the two nylon washers and nylon locking nut. Make sure the two nylon washers are placed inside the stainless-steel bracket, to protect the aluminum ­mounting surface on the back of the spreader light from suffering from electrolysis from two dissimilar metals coming in contact with each other. Tighten the stainless-steel hardware to a torque of 5 Nm. Do not overtighten.  

Read Next: Guide to LED Pontoon Boat Lights

Connect the Wiring

The pigtail on the spreader terminates with red/positive and black/negative wires, as well as yellow wire. For this project, ignore the yellow wire. Polarity is important with LEDs, so ensure that the red wire connects to a positive 12-volt power source and the black wire is to ground. Use crimp butt connectors with heat-shrink collars to connect the pigtail wires to the wires you’ve run to the mounting location. The connectors should be shielded from spray to deter corrosion. I tucked them inside the hardtop pipework and used a rubber grommet to protect the wiring from chafing and to prevent water intrusion. 

The post Installing LED Spreader Lights appeared first on Boating Mag.

Marine VHF antennas have not changed much since VHF radios were adopted by recreational boaters in the 1960s. We have seen improved durability and materials, optimized transmission and reception range, and enhanced mounting systems. Yet, the function of a VHF antenna has remained much the same—until now.

Shakespeare Marine, a long-established leader in marine antennas, has reimagined what a VHF antenna can be with the new CommLight. The 6.5-foot tall, 6 dB gain, and 5 MHz bandwidth CL-6 antenna not only offers outstanding transmission and reception capabilities, but it is also the first antenna to offer LED lighting. Controlled with a mobile app, boaters can adjust the vibrant glow of the antenna across the full RGB color spectrum and cue up flashing modes and adjust the pulse speed. It has multiple presets, and the CL-6 can sync its changing colors to the tempo of downloaded music. 

Lighting aside, the CL-6 features brass and copper elements for range and reception, a corrosion-resistant stainless-steel ferrule designed to fit a standard threaded (­­1-inch diameter/14 threads per inch) ratchet mount, a durable high-gloss PMMA antenna finish, a 15-foot RG-58 coaxial cable with a PL-259 connector, and a 25-foot two-piece power cable with a controller that connects wirelessly to your mobile device. 

Because you need to route and install both a standard coax cable and a power cable, retrofitting your boat with the CL-6 differs a bit from installing a replacement VHF antenna, but this DIY project is still fairly easy. 

Skill Level: 2 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 3-4 hours

Tools and Supplies

• Shakespeare Marine ­CommLight VHF antenna ($199.95; thegpsstore.com)
• Shakespeare Marine 4187 or 4187-HD ratchet mount (westmarine.com)
• Power drill and bit set
• Phillips screwdriver
• Socket wrench and box/open wrench sets
• Solder gun
• Resin-core solder
• Marine crimp terminals with heat-shrink collars
• Heavy-duty self-adhesive 1-inch Velcro strips
• Crimping tool
• Heat gun
• Zip ties
• Blue Sea Systems medium cable clam No. 1002

Download the App

Before getting started, it’s a good idea to download the free Shakespeare ­CommLight app on your mobile device. For Android, visit Google Play; for iPhones, go to the App Store. Once it’s on your phone, scroll through the functions, which include the on/off button at the top of the homepage, connecting to Bluetooth, a color wheel, pulsating and flashing color modes, music-sync mode, brightness and more. Having the app on your phone ahead of time will allow you to confirm that the illumination system is operational before you finalize the installation and button up everything on your boat. 

Mount the Antenna

If you do not already have an existing VHF antenna on your boat, choose a mounting location that is as high as possible (such as on a hardtop), free from obstructions, and as far as possible from any other antennas. Use a Shakespeare 4187 or 4187-HD or similar ratchet mount (sold separately), and ­follow the directions with the mount that you have chosen. If your boat has an existing VHF antenna that you are planning to use with the CL-6, remove the old antenna completely, and then thread the ferrule of the new antenna onto the ratchet mount, and tighten by hand. Do not use pliers; they can scratch the ferrule.

Route the Cables

Route the RG-58 and power cables from the antenna through the same pass-through that you used for the previous antenna. Once through, route the RG-58 cable to the VHF radio, keeping it away from electrical equipment and other cables. Roll the cable in a coil of at least 8 inches, and stow it out of the way. Install the PL-259 connector (­supplied) on the RG-58 cable according to the connector’s instructions. These call for soldering the connector to the cable. For a video tutorial on soldering on a PL-259 connector, visit Boating’s YouTube channel.

Install the Control Box

Position the compact illumination-control box in a spot that can receive Bluetooth signals from an onboard mobile device. The control box should also be close to an onboard power source. There is no supplied mounting system for the control box, but we recommend using a strip of heavy-duty Velcro with peel-and-stick adhesive (not supplied) to secure the lightweight module. Add a 3-amp fuse or breaker to the red positive wire from the power cable, and connect it to a switchable 12-volt DC power source. Connect the black negative wire from the power cable to the ­onboard ground circuit.

Read Next: How to Make DSC Fully Functional on a VHF Radio

Route and Connect the Power Cable

Run the power cable from the pass-through to the illumination-control box, and connect these two elements using the special cable-to-cable watertight plug, ensuring that the small pin connectors align properly and that the two knurled turnbuckles thread tightly against each other. Switch on power to the control box using the CommLight app previously installed on your mobile device, and test the system and its various features to ensure full ­functionality. Then secure all of the cables along their runs with zip ties to prevent ­chafing or other damage.

The post Installing a Lighted VHF Antenna appeared first on Boating Mag.

After 30 years of saltwater use, the intricately curved anodized-aluminum trim along the cap of the open transom of my outboard-powered 21-foot center-console fishing boat was falling apart. Corrosion had eaten away at the metal, and its once-lustrous finish was now crusty and riddled with ragged holes. 

I wanted to buy new trim from the factory, but production of the model had long ceased, and no replacement trim was available. Commissioning a custom piece of trim from a fabricator proved a bit too expensive for my budget.  

Making my own seemed like the way to go. I started with 1-inch aluminum 90-degree angle stock for the straight run across the outboard edge of the transom where the liner meets the hull. On each end of the straight run, however, the transom curves upward to meet the rail cap. Bending the aluminum stock proved too difficult for me, so I turned to another material—1-inch PVC 90-degree angle stock—to adjoin and bookend the aluminum trim. The PVC is 3/16-inch thick, which is drillable and holds fasteners well, and the light-gray color complements my boat and blends well with the aluminum angle stock. It is available in up to 6-foot lengths for $21.08 each from grainger.com.

PVC angle stock is rigid and chemical-resistant but becomes malleable with the application of mild heat, and so it can conform nicely to inside and outside bends. It returns to a rigid state once it cools. Here are the steps I followed to shape one curving piece of trim, a process that needs to be repeated in a mirror image on the opposite side.

Skill Level: 2.5 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 3-4 hours per each curved piece of trim

Tools and Supplies

• PVC 90-degree 1-inch angle stock ($21.08/6-foot length; grainger.com)
• 2-foot-long piece of ­two-by-six hardwood lumber
• Jig saw or coping saw
• Scrap cardboard and ­masking tape
• Pencil or marker
• Heavy-duty scissors and ­razor cutter
• Assorted vises and clamps
• Heat-resistant gloves
• Heat gun
• Miter box and fine-tooth back saw
• Bastard file
• Power drill and bit set
• No. 10 Phillips 3/4-inch-long truss-head self-tapping screws 
• Phillips screwdriver
• Marine sealant
• Shop rags (to wipe away ­excess sealant)

Create a Template

If you have not done so already, remove the old trim. If it comes off without bending or breaking, you can use the old trim as the template to build a jig as outlined in the next step. If the old trim is not usable for this purpose, securely tape a piece of cardboard against the outside of the transom, then with a pencil or marker, carefully trace along the curve of the transom. Then remove the cardboard and cut carefully with pair of scissors or a razor cutter with a fresh blade along the line you traced. This piece of cardboard will serve as your template for building a jig to shape an inside curve in the PVC stock. 

Build a Jig

I used a piece of two-by-six hardwood lumber about 2 feet in length to build the jig. Using the template, trace the radius of the curve so that it carries from the top edge of the wood to merge with the end of the piece of lumber. Next, use a jig saw or coping saw to cut carefully along the line that you drew, ensuring that the cut is as perpendicular as possible to the broad side of the board, thus creating a flat surface on the narrow edge for clamping and ­bending the PVC 90-degree angle stock. If not, you might have to sand the narrow edge of lumber to obtain a flat and level surface after the cut. 

Tip: Depending on the radius of the curve you need to create, you can use a two-by-four (for a smaller radius than in this project) or a two-by-ten (for a larger radius) to build the jig.

Heat and Bend

Lock the jig into a vice with the broad side vertical and the curved portion on top and hanging over the edge of your work surface to allow the heated PVC to bend around the end of the board. Clamp one side of the PVC angle stock to the top of the jig so that the ­other side of stock is ­oriented upward (to accommodate the inside curve). Gently and slowly warm the PVC in the area of the bend with a heat gun. Keep moving the heat gun to avoid overheating or crinkling of the plastic. As it softens, guide the stock carefully around the radius of the curve until you have created the desired bend.

Tip: A pair of heat-resistant gloves allows you to shape the curve of the heated plastic without suffering any burns to your hands. 

Fit and Trim

Let the angle stock completely cool with the clamps in place until the PVC angle stock becomes rigid again. Then unclamp it from the jig, and test-fit it to the transom edges to ensure that the newly curved piece follows the bend and fits flush on all surfaces. Assuming a good fit, also note where you need to trim the PVC stock on each end, marking both with a piece of masking tape. Cut the angle stock to fit with a miter box and a fine-tooth back saw. Leave at least ¹/₈ to ¹/₁₆ inch of extra length on each end. This will allow you to file down the last little bit of material for the tightest fit possible.

Read Next: How to Apply Clear Coat to a Fiberglass Boat

Drill and Secure

Refit the piece of trim in place—recheck your cuts to make sure everything fits well and flush. Then mark the best location for the mounting screws. Avoid screwing into the apex of the curving portion of the trim or along the vertical leg of the angle stock. Instead, secure it along the straight horizontal portions of the PVC. Drill pilot holes with a No. 21 bit through the trim and into the transom cap, and use stainless-steel 3/4-inch-long No.10 Phillips truss-head self-tapping screws. Bed the surfaces and pilot holes with marine sealant. Don’t overtighten the screws so as to prevent cracking the plastic.

Tip: Before attaching the replacement trim, fill in and seal the old screw holes from the original trim. In this case, I filled in the old holes with Marine Tex. 

The post How to Create Custom Boat Trim appeared first on Boating Mag.

There are a number of app-based boat security and monitoring products today from well-known brands such as Garmin, Gost, Siren Marine, and one newcomer, the Skyhawk Oversea.

Oversea is unique in that its components are all independently powered by internal, replaceable batteries. This eliminates the need for onboard battery power, and this greatly simplifies installation. In fact, the Skyhawk Oversea system is so unique that it won an Innovation Award from the National Marine Manufacturers Association at the 2024 Miami International Boat Show.

Consisting of a 4-by-4-inch waterproof Hub ($299) that communicates via high-power RF signals with even-more-compact waterproof sensors, Skyhawk allows you to customize a system based on what you wish to monitor. The sensor Hub itself contains GPS to enable you to check the location and track your boat remotely via 4G cellular (additional service required) and the free Oversea mobile app. You can also check the sensor readings with the app.

The system can be configured to send alerts via text and/or email if, for example, a boat battery sensor detects that voltage has fallen below a predetermined limit, if a bilge-water sensor is triggered, or if a motion sensor is tripped.

For this installation, we added two battery-voltage sensors, one bilge-water sensor and one motion sensor. With the $19.99 monthly cellular plan we selected, we could have up to six sensors, allowing for expansion in the future.

Skill Level: 1 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 2 hours

Tools and Supplies

• Skyhawk Oversea Hub ($299; oversea.boats/shop)
• Skyhawk Oversea ­Sensors ($69 each, except for door-entry sensor, $29; ­oversea.boats/shop)
• Skyhawk Oversea cellular plan ($19.99 per month)
• Power drill and bit set
• Phillips screwdriver
• Marine silicone sealant
• Shop rags (to wipe away ­excess sealant)

Subscribe and Register

Before beginning the actual physical installation, take time to download and launch the free Oversea app on your cellphone or tablet. The Oversea app is available in the App Store (for iOS devices) and from Google Play (for Android devices). Use the app to establish an account for the Oversea service, set up your profile, and register each of the devices you have purchased by scanning the barcode on each item in your setup. No pairing or passcodes are required to undertake this step. Take care not to turn on any of the devices at this time. However, you can start to look for the best locations for each based on the function of the sensor.

Install the Hub

The Oversea Hub must be positioned on a horizontal surface in a cool, dry compartment that will not block GPS, cellular or RF transmissions. Orient the hub with the On button facing upward and the imprinted boat icon pointed forward, parallel with the centerline. We chose the inside of the fiberglass seat base, and attached the four nonskid adhesive pads to the underside of the hub, placed the silicone bracket over it, and used the two supplied stainless-steel screws to secure it. Press the power button (The three AA ­batteries in the hub have an expected life of one year, and might last as long as three.), then check the Oversea app to ensure that it connects to cellular and displays as one of your devices. You must do this before ­moving to Step No. 3.

Tip: The hub can receive GPS, as well as transmit and receive RF and cellular signals through fiberglass. Avoid mounting the hub or the sensors near metal such as marine batteries or engines, which can block connectivity.

Install the Sensors

Locate battery sensors next to the boat batteries in order to connect devices’ positive and negative leads to their respective batteries. The bilge-water sensor has an electronic water-­sensing switch and thermometer with a 4-foot wire that plugs into the sensor device, which should be mounted as high as possible in the bilge compartment. Mount the passive infrared motion sensor in a hidden spot aimed at the helm. There are two ways to mount sensors: 1) a built-in bracket for supplied stainless-steel fasteners; and 2) high-strength adhesive hook-and-loop fasteners. Both allow for easy removal to replace batteries when the time comes.

Read Next: Theft Prevention for Boat Trailers

Turn On the Sensors

Turn on each of the sensors by pressing the power button on each device once. A green blinking LED after a button press means the device is turning on. A red blinking LED after a button press means the device is turning off. A sensor that is working and connects with the Hub will blink green every 10 seconds. A yellow blinking LED shows that the last signal from the device was not processed correctly and it will try again to transmit the signal. A red blinking LED means the battery is running low (The two AA batteries in each sensor have an expected life of five years, and some might last 10 years.), and a blue blinking LED means the sensor is sending an RF signal. Confirm that each of the sensors is active in the Oversea app.

Tip: The power-up and connection process can last for 30 seconds or more, depending on network traffic. Do not press the button again too quickly.

Configure Limits and Alerts

The Skyhawk Oversea app enables boaters to create a certain level of customization and configuration. For example, on the homepage, known as “My Dock,” you can upload a photo of your boat, as well as your boat’s name. You can also name each sensor such as “Start Battery” or “House Battery” to simplify identification of the sensors. You can also set low-voltage thresholds for each battery, and enable alerts that will warn you via text and/or email if such limits are breached. Similarly, Oversea will alert you via the app if the bilge-water level triggers a sensor or if a ­motion sensor detects ­movement on board.

The post Installing a Skyhawk Oversea System to Protect Your Boat appeared first on Boating Mag.

A properly installed through-hull transducer can maximize the performance of down-looking sonar in two ways. First, it has direct contact with the water, so there’s no signal loss as you might experience with an in-hull transducer that sends and receives sonar through a layer of fiberglass. Second, a through-hull is less likely to suffer from interference due to aeration unlike a transom-mount transducer that gets bathed in foam as water exits the stern and mixes with air.

Through-hull transducers that mount flush against the hull create little drag and do not interfere with trailer bunks or rollers as a bulky old-school through-hull might. Here are the details on how to install a flush-mount model on a solid fiberglass hull using the Airmar B175HW bronze through-hull transducer, a 1 kW ’ducer that offers a 25-degree beam and a CHIRP frequency band of 150 to 250 kHz, used with a Lowrance HDS-12 Gen3 sonar. If you keep your boat in the water, you will need to haul it for this project.

Getting Started

Skill Level: 3.5/5

Time to Complete: 5 Hours

Tools and Supplies

• Airmar B175HW transducer
• Angle finder
• Electric drill with 1/2-inch chuck
• 1/8-inch drill bit
• 3 3/4-inch hole saw
• Rat-tail file or rotary grinder (some installations)
• Miter saw
• 600-grit sandpaper
• Denatured alcohol
• Marine sealant for use below the waterline (such as 3M 4000)
• Slip-joint pliers
• 3/16-inch Allen wrench
• Dust mask and safety goggles
• Shop rags (to clean up sealant around transducer face)

Choose the Location

Look for a flat location as far aft and as close to the centerline as possible that allows enough room on the outside for the transducer face (5.26 inches in diameter in this case). Avoid areas directly abaft strakes, through-hull pickups or struts that might cause aerated water to flow across the face of the transducer. The face should not rest on a trailer bunk. Check inside the hull to ensure the area is clear of items, like stringers and bulkheads. On a step-hull, pick a spot just forward of the first step.

Select the Angle

Use a bevel gauge to confirm the angle of the V-hull at the mounting location, then choose the transducer tilt angle that most closely matches so that the sonar beam is transmitting as vertically as possible. The Airmar B175HW, for example, is available in three angles: zero tilt (for zero- to 7-degree deadrise), 12-degree tilt (for 8- to 15-degree V-hulls) and 20-degree tilt (for 16 to 24 degrees). Our V-hull has 22 degrees of deadrise, so we chose the 20-degree-tilt version.

Cut the Hole

From inside the hull, use the mounting nut to test for clearance space, then mark the center point and drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole through the hull. Utilizing the pilot hole as a guide, use a 3 3/4-inch hole saw to cut a hole from the outside perpendicular to the hull surface. It might be necessary to enlarge the hole slightly using a grinder or rat-tail file. Lightly sand around the hole, inside and out, to ensure the sealant will adhere properly. Clean both surfaces with denatured alcohol.

Sealant Savvy

Prior to installing, apply a 1/8-inch layer of marine sealant, such as 3M 4000, to the flange, sidewall and stem threads so that the sealant extends 1/8 inch higher than the combined thickness of the hull, spacer and nut. Also apply a 1/8-inch layer of sealant to the inside surface of the spacer.

Fit the Spacer

With the transducer in position (ask someone to hold it firmly against the outside of the hull), slide one of the washers over the cable and the stem, followed by the spacer and second washer. There should be at least three threads showing above the second washer without the nut. If not, shorten the spacer by cutting the open end squarely with a miter saw. Dry fit again to ensure the space is the appropriate height, and then remove the transducer.

Install the Transducer

After applying sealant, reinsert the transducer stem from under the boat. From inside, rotate the stem so that the arrow on top points perpendicular to the centerline to align the beam angle. Slide on a washer, the spacer (open side down), the second washer and the nut. Tighten the nut with slip-joint pliers, then apply sealant to the set screws on the nut and tighten until each makes contact with the threads; continue to tighten one-quarter turn. Clean up any excess sealant.

Specialty Wrenches

While we suggest large slip-lock pliers for installing the B175HW, Airmar Technology Corp. makes two special wrenches for doing this. One is the 175WR-4 to hold the transducer stem in position while you tighten the 4 1/2-inch-wide transducer nut with an Airmar 164WR-3 wrench. While you might only use them once, the precise fit and shorter handles make these tools easier to use than slip-lock pliers in the cramped confines of a bilge compartment.

The post How To Install Flush-Mount Through-Hull Transducers appeared first on Boating Mag.

Dometic’s new Xtreme Power Assist offers innovative benefits to boaters on a number of levels. For one, it’s the only power-assist system for outboard-powered boats with cable steering. Secondly, it’s easy to install for DIYers. Thirdly, it makes steering an outboard—be it at idle or at speed—super-easy, greatly reducing the effort to turn the wheel.

Using a compact and advanced brushless electric-motor system, XPA is engineered for use with Dometic’s popular SeaStar rack or rotary cable steering systems to provide fingertip control at the wheel. Yet, XPA does not increase the load on the mechanical helm or the steering cable. 

XPA fills a niche in the boating market for midrange outboards 90 to 200 hp, providing a more affordable and simpler alternative to other types of power-assist such as Dometic’s SeaStar hydraulic power-assist or Optimus ­all-electric steering. 

XPA attaches to the outboard steering bracket and draws its power from the boat’s onboard 12-volt DC electrical system. Before getting started, make sure that there is proper clearance at the transom, as specified in the installation instructions. This is to ensure that the outboard has room to turn unimpeded from side to side, as well as tilt and trim up and down. Also, disconnect or turn off the battery switch before getting started.

This installation took place on an 18-foot center-console boat powered by a 115 hp outboard with a SeaStar Safe-T Quick-Connect rotary steering system.

Skill Level: 2 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 2 hours

Tools and Supplies

• Dometic Xtreme ­Power ­Assist with a 12-foot wire harness ($1,999; ­westmarine.com)
• Socket and open/box wrench sets
• Torque wrench ($95 for 3/8-inch drive inch-pound model with digital scale; etork.com)
• Power drill and bit set
• Electricians snake (to route wire harness)
• Marine-grade crimps with heat-shrink collars
• Wire striper and crimping tool
• Heat gun
• Zip-ties (to secure wire ­harness along its run)
• Marine grease
• Shop rags (to wipe away ­excess grease)

Spacer and Adapter

Tilt the engine down, and remove the link arm from the steering cable ram. Remove the nut for the steering cable, and pull it from the tilt tube. Because you are installing a new steering system, we strongly advise that you install a new cable as well. Clean and lube the cable ram and tilt tube with marine grease. Determine if the supplied cable adapter or split plastic cable spacer will be required for your outboard based on the chart provided in the installation-­requirements section of the instructions. If so, add the cable adapter or split plastic cable as instructed. Reinstall the cable and nut, then torque the nut to 25 lb.-ft.

Mounting Bracket

Ensure that the mounting holes on the front of the tilt tube housing are free of dirt and debris. Based on the chart in the installation-requirements section of the instructions, determine if body spacer shims are required for the mounting bracket and which ones to use. Attach the mounting bracket to the engine tilt tube housing. Verify that the mounting bracket doesn’t prevent access to the grease fittings. If it does, remove and plug the grease fittings, or replace them with fittings that are flush to the engine. Tighten the fasteners in a cross pattern, ensuring that they are fully seated against the mounting ­bracket. Torque to 75 lb.-in.

Retraction Spacers and Clevis Sleeve

Determine if your engine requires retraction spacers by checking for the model in the chart provided in the installation-requirements section of the instructions. Slide the required number of retraction spacers onto the steering cable ram. Then slide the clevis nut over the steering cable ram. Next, determine the proper clevis sleeve from among the two supplied in the installation kit (there’s one green and one black) for your outboard engine model in the chart provided in the installation-­requirements section of the instructions. Slide the correct clevis sleeve onto the steering cable ram.

Mount XPA

Slide the XPA onto the studs of the mounting bracket, followed by the supplied washers. Secure the XPA with the supplied anti-seize ¹/₂-inch nuts. Torque to 150 lb.-in. Align the holes of the steering ram and the clevis sleeve. Insert the clevis pin through the sleeve and steering ram holes. Twist the steering ram, aligning the flats with the pin in a ­horizontal orientation. Hold the clevis pin in place, and guide the clevis sleeve and steering cable ram into the sensor housing while a ­buddy turns the steering wheel. Slide the clevis nut into the sensor housing and thread it on by hand. The sleeve must be fully seated. Torque to 150 lb.-in.

Read Next: Dometic SeaStar XPA Steering

Install Link Arm

Apply marine grease to the shoulder area above the threads on the engine link arm, then insert the link arm (which is connected at the other end to the outboard tiller arm) into the XPA sensor housing, but don’t secure the ³/₈-inch thin locknut at this time. Inspect the complete assembly to check that it is properly seated and free from any restriction or binding. Ensure that all XPA power cables are secure and free of sharp bends and potential chafing. Secure the supplied ³/₈-inch thin locknut, making sure the locking feature of this nut is engaged with the threads on the link arm. Fully tighten the nut, then unscrew ­between ¹/₄ and ¹/₂ of a turn.

Connect to Power

Turn off all power to the boat. ­Identify a location for the status-light installation on the boat’s dash that’s readily visible when at the helm. Drill a ¹¹/₆₄-inch-diameter hole into the dash at the chosen location. Install the LED status light into the hole. Next, route the XPA wire harness to the boat’s battery without making hard turns or pressing the harness against sharp surfaces. Install the supplied 40-amp fuse holder according to the instructions included in the kit. Route the purple and gray wires to the dash. Splice the purple ignition sensing wire of the XPA to the boat’s key-on power lead. This wire must deliver 12 volts DC when the ignition is on. Next, splice the gray wire to the yellow wire of the LED status light and the light’s red wire to a 12-volt DC power source. Next, connect the black wire from the XPA harness to the negative terminal of the boat battery. Then connect the red overcurrent-protected harness to the positive terminal of the battery. Restore power to the boat, and make sure the system is operating properly.

The post Installing Dometic’s Xtreme Power Assist appeared first on Boating Mag.

Aluminum fuel tanks can corrode in a marine environment, though much depends on how well they are protected belowdecks from salt water. Shielded from briny water, tanks can last forever, but on some boats, salt water may seep through seams in the deck, slosh onto the tank from the bilge space below it, and/or become trapped between the tank and foam flotation inside the boat, leading to corrosion and eventually leaks.

Such was the case with the aluminum gasoline fuel tank in our 1986 21-foot center-console project boat. Corrosion-wrought pin holes had developed on top of the 15-year-old tank, and the plate for the fuel-gauge sending unit no longer sealed tight because of rampant oxidation on the tank’s mating surface. In short, it was time for a new tank.

We commissioned a new 75-gallon tank, but before installation, we wanted to give the aluminum surface a protective coating to thwart corrosion and help forestall the need to replace it again for decades to come. We turned to Pettit Marine Paint’s AlumaProtect ­two-part aluminum epoxy primer, followed by Pettit’s EZ-Poxy polyurethane topside paint. 

While each step outlined below is critical, the main ingredient is the AlumaProtect primer. Its bright-yellow strontium-chromate formula is the same coating used to protect aluminum airplane components. Before you get started, put on personal protective equipment, including a paint suit, rubber gloves, eye protection and the proper respirator, and make sure you work in a well-ventilated area.

Skill Level: 2 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 2.5 hours (excluding drying time)

Tools and Supplies

• Pettit AlumaProtect 4400/4401 two-part ­aluminum epoxy primer kit ($145.99 per 0.375-gallon each of parts A and B; westmarine.com)
• Pettit EZ-Poxy 3711 Platinum Gray polyurethane topside paint or color of your choice ($29.99 per 16.93-ounce aerosol can; westmarine.com)
• Translucent graduated mixing pails (2)
• Solvent-resistant roller trays (2)
• 4-inch foam rollers (2) and roller handle
• Masking tape
• 120- and 220-grit sandpaper
• Orbital sander
• Air compressor
• Tack cloth
• Personal protection ­equipment (paint suit, ­respirator, eye protection, rubber gloves)

Mask off Fittings

Many new marine fuel tanks are delivered with plastic caps on the fittings for the fuel fill, vent, and fuel pickup. Keep these in place until completely done painting the tank. In addition, mask off the fittings where the hoses will slide on to prevent later contamination of the fuel with paint residue. Mask off the plate for the fuel-gauge sending units and the tab or tabs for the tank grounding wires. These two wires (a green one connected to the fuel fill and a black one to ship’s ground) need a clean metal surface for effective grounding to help prevent the buildup of static ­electricity when later filling up the fuel tank. 

Scuff up the Surface

With the tank exterior free of grease, oil and other contaminants, abrade the entire aluminum surface finish using an orbital sander fitted with 120-grit sandpaper. This will assure adhesion of the AlumaProtect primer. Reduce the tank’s exterior to a dull finish on the top, bottom and sides. Spots that are hard to reach such as corners and under the fill and vent fittings can be sanded by hand. Wearing rubber gloves will prevent contaminating the surface with oil from your hands. Once you’ve scuffed up the surface, use compressed air to blow away sanding dust before moving to the next step.

Read Next: How to Apply the Propspeed Antifouling System

Apply AlumaProtect

Apply Pettit’s AlumaProtect epoxy the same day in which the tank is sanded because aluminum corrodes quickly. Stir parts A and B ­thoroughly, then combine them 1-to-1 in a translucent graduated mixing pail and mix thoroughly, then let stand per the instructions. On our 80-degree F workday, this was 15 minutes. Pour the mixture into a ­solvent-resistant roller tray, apply a thin coat with a 4-inch foam roller, and then let dry. Dry time was four hours, but it might take longer at cooler temperatures. Apply a thin second coat. It took less than a half-gallon of the epoxy mixture for our 75-gallon tank.

Tip: Marine fuel tanks come with a Coast Guard-required label on top that lists the name of the manufacturer, date of manufacture, type of fuel, volume, and verification of pressure testing. Do not remove this label, and take time to mask over it to ensure that the information is not covered by paint.

Apply EZ-Poxy

To further protect the aluminum tank exterior from moisture and corrosion and give the tank an aesthetically pleasing appearance, Pettit recommends that boaters apply two coats of Pettit EZ-Poxy polyurethane topside paint after the primer. The one-part paint can be rolled, brushed or sprayed. For boaters without sprayers, Pettit makes ­EZ-Poxy available in aerosol spray cans, which we chose. Available in a number of shades, the ­EZ-Poxy Platinum Gray seemed perfect for our application. Apply an even, thin first coat in a fan pattern, ensuring that the entire tank is ­covered. Allow the first coat to dry for 16 hours.

Tip: For the best results, avoid temperatures below 50 degrees F and days of high humidity and/or rain. Ideally, temperatures should be above 75 degrees F.

Sand and Recoat

Within 24 hours after the first coat, sanding is not required before recoating; if after 24 hours, lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper, taking care not to sand through the AlumaProtect primer. Once done, wipe the entire surface with a tack cloth. If no sanding took place, ensure that airborne contamination has been removed from the surface. Apply an even, thin second coat of EZ-Poxy in a fan pattern, once again making sure that the entire exterior surface of the tank is recoated. Let the second coat dry for 16 hours, then carefully remove the masking tape. It required almost two 16.93-ounce aerosol cans of EZ-Poxy to paint the tank.

Tip: Hanging the tank from a tree limb or other elevated object while painting makes this project go faster. If not, you need to paint the top, let it dry, and then flip the tank over and paint the bottom, as we did. This about doubles the time needed to complete the job.

The post Painting a Boat’s Aluminum Fuel Tank appeared first on Boating Mag.

Preparing a trailer boat for on-road safety while towing to and from a launch ramp calls for securing the transom eyes to the trailer with a pair of properly rated transom ­tie-down straps, in addition to securing the bow eye with the winch strap and safety chain. 

A pair of transom web straps generally connects the transom eyes to corresponding ­tie-down points on the back of the trailer, tightening with a buckle or a ratchet. Traditionally, you store the straps in your tow vehicle after you launch.   

However, one type of transom tie-down strap is engineered to remain attached to the trailer. These are known as retractable transom tie-down straps, and they were first introduced in the 1990s by Boat Buckle. The design concept has since been copied by a number of other companies, including BetterBoat, CargoLoc, Fulton, RhinoUSA, Strappino and others. 

While retractable transom tie-down straps are fairly easy to install, there are important factors to keep in mind when choosing straps and mounting methods to maximize longevity of the system and help ensure that the boat is secured as well as possible to the trailer while towing to keep the hull from sliding about or bouncing on the bunks or rollers. 

For this installation of retractable transom straps, we focus on a 21.5-foot center-console trailer boat that weighs approximately 4,000 pounds without the trailer and is used primarily in salt water. Here’s how the installation went.

Skill Level: 1 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 2 hours

Tools and Supplies

• BetterBoat retractable ­43-inch stainless-steel ratchet tie-down straps ($73.99 per pair with adapter brackets and hardware; amazon.com)
• Power drill and drill-bit set
• Socket-wrench set
• Box/open-end wrench set
• Tape measure
• Cold-galvanizing spray paint ($21.90 per CRC ­Zinc-It 13-ounce aerosol can; grainger.com)

Select Straps

Retractable transom tie-down strap systems come in a variety of ratings for working loads and breaking strength. Select the highest rating possible for your rig. Better to have straps that are too strong than too weak. Ensure that the straps offer sufficient length to reach the transom eyes from the mounting point. If you boat in salt water, consider stainless-steel models with construction that resists ­corrosion. In our case, we decided on a pair of ­BetterBoat stainless-steel models with 43-by-2-inch web straps with a working load limit of 600 pounds and an assembly breaking strength of 1,800 pounds each.

Tip: Stainless-steel models have lower strength ratings than comparable models featuring carbon-steel construction, but the stainless version will cost more. If you boat in fresh water only, you can choose from the carbon-steel models.

Mounting Method

The compact ratchet system will mount in two ways. The standard method calls for fastening a 10 mm diameter  bolt through a hole in the rear crossmember of the trailer using a matching washer and nut. The second employs an adapter bracket that bolts to the trailer tie-down that is perpendicular on the rear crossmember. Thus, as with the standard mounting method, the strap deploys flat/parallel to the transom surface, eliminating any twist. Using the adapter bracket also eliminates the need to drill a hole in the trailer, which can break the painted or galvanized finish of a steel trailer and lead to corrosion.

Determine Location

The mounting location for the ratchet on the rear crossmember should align as vertically as possible with the transom tie-down eyes on the boat. Avoid angling the strap more than 30 degrees in any direction from up and down. Also avoid locations that draw the strap across any objects such as the aft corner of the hull, a trim tab or a transom-mounted transducer. On boats with integral outboard brackets or extended aft platforms, deploying the strap across the bottom of the transom might prove unavoidable. If this is necessary, consider placing a towel under the strap before tightening it to forestall wear on the boat finish.

Tip: In deciding a mounting location, be sure there’s enough swing room to work the ratch handle back and forth before you finalize your decision. There might be, for instance, a trailer taillight or trim tab that interferes with the handle or becomes a finger pinch point when tensioning the ratchet. 

Mount the Ratchets

If you choose the standard installation method, drill mounting holes in the desired locations, then give the raw metal a couple of coats of rust-fighting cold-galvanizing spray paint. Next, bolt the ratchets securely to the rear crossmember using the supplied hardware. If using an adapter bracket, decide on the best angle for the adapter depending on if the tie-down is in a vertical or horizontal orientation. Use the angle that orients the back of the ratchet mechanism parallel to the transom, allowing the strap to deploy parallel to the transom as well. Bolt the ratchets securely to the adapters using the supplied hardware.

Read Next: 6 Best Boat Trailer Light Kit Options

Deploy and Retract

To deploy and attach the BetterBoat straps, press the button in the middle of the ratchet handle to release the tension, then pull out the strap and attach the vinyl-coated strap hook to the transom eye. Press the button on the ratchet handle and move the handle up, then release the button and work the handle back and forth to tighten the strap. To remove the strap from the boat, press the button in the handle to release the tension on the strap, then remove the hook from the transom tie-down eye, allowing the spring-loaded ratchet to ­automatically ­retract the strap into the mechanism like a venetian blind.

Tip: After the first trip with the new retractable tie-down straps, recheck the tightness of the mounting hardware and retighten if necessary.

The post Installing Retractable Transom Straps appeared first on Boating Mag.

Inflatable water toys make for great summer fun. To save space and for easy transport, many boaters keep these deflated until they’re ready to start the fun. The question is: What’s the best way to inflate everything once you’re on the water and ready to get the party started? 

The new award-winning Atmos Air Station from Scanstrut represents one of the most convenient. It’s easy to use and ignition-protected. It flush-mounts permanently on a flat surface in your boat, with enough surface area and depth to accommodate the compact unit. 

Unlike portable inflators that need to be hooked up to a battery with alligator clips, the Atmos two-stage (high- and low-pressure) pump is always connected to power and ready to pump up any inflatable item you have on board. Atmos also lets you set the target air pressure that you want to achieve. It will automatically shut off when it reaches the preset PSI. What’s more, the brushless 12-volt DC air-pump motor can also deflate your toys (using the unit’s “Deflate” port) at the end of the day, so you can more easily stow them for the ride home. 

The Atmos features an LCD display and comes with a detachable 8-foot air hose (or optional 12-foot hose) and six types of connectors to fit a wide range of inflation valves on watertoys, floats and kayaks, as well as inflatable boats, stand-up paddleboards and foiling boards. Here’s how our project went on a 24-foot sterndrive runabout.

Skill Level: 2 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 3 hours

Tools and Supplies

• Scanstrut Atmos Integrated Air Station ($357; amazon.com)
• Masking tape
• Marking pencil
• Pozi screwdriver
• Power drill and drill-bit set
• Countersink bit
• 1 ¾-inch hole saw
• Thin-kerf hand or power saw
• Tape measure
• Soldering gun and materials
• Marine wire crimp connectors
• Heat-shrink tubing and heat gun
• Marine silicone sealant (optional)
• Ten 20 mm M3 countersunk machine screws, washers and nylon lock nuts (for installion on metal surfaces)

Select a Location

The Atmos must be flush-­mounted on a flat surface ranging from plus-10 to ­minus-30 degrees from vertical to prevent the accumulation of water in the door chamber or pump housing. Avoid curved surfaces. Allow for at least 12 ½ inches (­horizontal) by 8 ½ inches (vertical) to accommodate the faceplate and supplied sun cover, as well as an additional 3 ½ inches of clearance on the left side of the faceplate for the door to the inflator ports to swing open. Also ensure that there is at least 4 ½ inches of depth behind the mounting surface and that nothing will interfere behind the mounting surface with making the cutout.

Create the Cutout

Mask off the area to help prevent scratching the boat finish during installation. Cut out the supplied template, and tape it into position. Use a ­1 ¾-inch hole saw to cut each of the four corners, then follow up with thin-kerf hand or power saw to cut along the four lines that connect them. Next, drill ­pilot holes for the 10 self-tapping mounting screws. For soft material such as plywood or roto-molded plastic, use a ⁵/₆₄-inch diameter drill bit; for harder material such as fiberglass, acrylic or hardwood, use a ³/₃₂-inch drill bit. On a gelcoat surface, lightly chamfer each hole with a countersink to help prevent chipping.

Install the Unit

Remove the masking tape, and slide the unit into the cutout. The waterproof Atmos does not come with sealing gasket, but if you’re worried about water intrusion, lay a fine line of silicone sealant around the perimeter, and dab each of the screws with sealant. Align the 10 mounting holes (five each on the top and bottom) of the faceplate with the pilot holes on the mounting surface, and drive in the supplied No. 4 self-tapping stainless-steel screws. Do not overtighten at the risk of cracking the plastic flange of the faceplate. Install the upper and lower snap covers that hide the heads of the screws and give the ­installation a seamless look. 

Connect to Power

The Atmos comes with a two-wire 12-volt DC power cord that includes a positive (red) wire and a negative (black) wire. Connect the red wire to a positive bus bar that is connected to an on/off switch from the boat’s battery with a fuse or resettable circuit breaker between the battery and switch. Connect the black wire to a negative bus bar that’s connected to a common ground. Connect with terminals that are soldered or crimped on and covered with heat-shrink tubing to thwart moisture and corrosion. Support the wires throughout their run, and install anti-chafe grommets where the wires pass through bulkheads or decks.

Read Next: How to Patch an Inflatable Dinghy

Test the System

To make sure the Atmos system is working properly and that you grow familiar with its operation, pull out one of your towable water toys or other inflatable and follow the directions in the owner’s ­manual to blow it up. Then do the reverse, using the ­Atmos to deflate your towable. If you encounter any issues, refer to the troubleshooting guide in the owner’s manual to track down, address and correct the problem. When you’re done operating the Atmos, be sure to close the door that hides the inflate and deflate ports, cover the faceplate with the included sun cover, and turn off the switch suppling power to the Atmos air station.

The post How to Install an Atmos Air Station appeared first on Boating Mag.

Keeping a lid on your boat’s livewell keeps the crew and the deck dry in rough seas, but an opaque lid prevents you from easily checking on the health of your live-bait supply. That’s why so many new saltwater fishing boats today feature clear livewell lids. 

Lending impetus to this trend is the growing number of pressurized livewells requiring lids that latch and seal tight to keep water from overflowing. With a clear hatch, you can easily glance inside to check the bait without opening the lid, which otherwise allows water to gush out the top.

But what if you have an older boat with a lid made from fiberglass or King Starboard? Boat Outfitters makes and sells a wide variety of boat accessories and solutions, including custom clear acrylic livewell lids. Their expert staff will work with you to design and build a new clear lid using CNC machining and milling to perfectly replace your old one. The DIY part of this project is delivering accurate dimensions, removing the old lid and installing the new one.

To see how this process works, we asked Boat Outfitters to create a new clear acrylic lid for a 20-gallon livewell on our project boat: a 1986 outboard-powered ­center-console.

Skill Level: 1 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 3 hours (including ordering details)

Tools and Supplies

• Custom 11 5/16-by-9 3/4-by-3/4-inch clear acrylic livewell lid with all new hardware and milled perimeter ($495.38; boatoutfitters.com)
• Digital calipers for precise measurements ($19.99; harborfreight.com)
• Tape measure
• Phillips screwdriver
• Socket- and box-wrench sets
• Marine-bedding compound
• Assorted stainless-steel fasteners

Consultation

This project starts with sending a ­detailed message about what you are trying to achieve to Boat Outfitters at boatoutfitters.com/contact-us. Attach up to five photos of your old livewell lid, the opening to the well, and the hardware. You can also call 866-633-7961 from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. ET Monday through Friday, but it is usually better to start by outlining your project in writing through the message portal so that the staff is better informed when getting back to you. Boat Outfitters also welcomes walk-ins if you happen to live close to the company’s facility in Ocoee, Florida, allowing you to consult in person.

Tip: Boat Outfitters also offers a number of stock clear acrylic livewell hatches for many of today’s most popular saltwater fishing boats from brands such as Boston Whaler, Key West, Mako, Regulator, Robalo, Sportsman and others.

Measure Precisely

Boat Outfitters will email you three sheets to complete, including the dimensions of the molded lip of the livewell pass-through (sheet 1), and dimensions of the pass-through opening of the existing livewell hatch (sheet 2). Sheet 3 is a template for determining the radii of the corners of the hatch. Use digital calipers to measure the dimensions on sheet 1; a tape measure works for sheet 2. (If you lost the old lid, make a template to help guide the new design.) Email the completed forms to Boat Outfitters, which will help determine the feasibility of the project and quote a price to create the new lid.

Ship the Old Lid

Once Boat Outfitters reviews your completed forms, they will send a confirmation and might call with more questions. In some cases, including ours, it might be necessary to remove and ship the old hatch cover to them. They can use the original hatch as a prototype to scan and create a software file needed for machining. We did this, leaving all of the original hardware attached, including a pair of friction hinges and the pull handle. While Boat Outfitters replaces all of this with fresh hardware, it allows them to drill and attach the new hardware in precisely the same locations as on the old lid.

Approve the Order

Based on the supplied dimensions and scan of the existing livewell lid, Boat Outfitters will email you computer-generated drawings of the new lid for your approval. These drawings include specifications such as the material; length, width and depth of the lid; the radii for the corners and routed edges; and the location and model numbers of the hardware. Carefully review everything to ensure accuracy, and once you are satisfied, return the ­drawings with your signature of ­approval, and Boat Outfitters will move ahead with ­production and, once complete, will ship the new lid (as well as your old one) to you.

Read Next: Installing a High-Speed Center-Console Livewell

Install the New Lid

Once the clear acrylic livewell lid arrives, remove the old hatch if you have not done so already. The new hatch will come with new, pre-­installed hinges that match the old hinges. Use fresh stainless-steel fasteners and marine-bedding compound to through-bolt the hinges in the same location as the original hinges. We ordered friction hinges for our lid; these can be a little tight initially, so the lid without a latch might not close and seat completely. However, friction hinges do wear in over time to articulate more freely, eventually allowing the lid to seat completely on the rim of the livewell.

Tip: Boat Outfitters uses barrel nuts on the underside of clear acrylic livewell lids to attach hinges and other hardware. This results in a flush fit on the underside that eliminates interference issues with the lip on the livewell pass-through.

Let There Be Light

In addition to letting anglers readily keep an eye on their live-bait supply, clear lids also help keep bait alive and injury-free by allowing abundant natural light in to illuminate the interior. This lets the bait see better and avoid bumping into the walls of the livewell­—­artificial barriers that ­baitfish normally don’t have to deal with.

The post Installing Clear Acrylic Livewell Lids appeared first on Boating Mag.